It’s early. If we divide the day into 24-hour slots. Before established stores half-open their shutter, after empty bottles spread around the concrete. A new nation is settling down on the street which, during the weekday, pedestrians, dogs, and bikes pass through to reach their destination at Old Street, London Bridge, Bank or Blackfriars. On Saturdays and Sundays, the symphony of vegetables boiling in casseroles, cheese melting between bread slices, Guinness mixing into bloody mary to assemble the perfect blend, and coffee pouring into cartoon cups is heard. A constituent wonders if single-used products should be banned; if, no matter what the material: glass, cartoon, plastic, can, the harm human manifests is the same. "A poll should be held," one thinks. Within a couple of minutes, seconds, and moments, the weekend country called Broadway Market is founded.&nbsp;The homeland of Broadway Market is desegregated. According to legend, once upon a time created by Zhuge Liang as a military strategy, in Hong Kong switched to rice flour from wheat due to environmental reasons; in Taiwan filled with crab, beef, or sweet potato; in Shanghai when steamed turned into a delicious soup, bao is here, in the middle of the market, right next to the musical act of the day, in its usual place. Maybe a couple of inches to the right from where it used to be the prior week. In Broadway Market, the places are not fixed neither to the ground nor to the adjacent neighbor. It’s flexible. "A dosa with potatoes in exchange for your chocolate churros," a vendor says to the adjoining one. The currency within the inhabitants is barter.&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/3/1679469550705.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">A regular day at the Broadway Market<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">No passport, no identity card, and no credentials is asked while entering. A couple of smiles, "Would you like to try a falafel? How about a Kolkati roll?" I’ve been asked. While walking, 2 distinct smell catches my attention. The first one is 5K (cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, cloves and cumin), commonly known as Masala Chai, taking its origins from India, but as a known world traveler, making Broadway Market another stop on its journey. The second one, more dominant, a dark roast coffee and potent condensed milk, slowly dripping through a metal filter (phin). Ah! Vietnamese Coffee.&nbsp;Chit-chat accompanies the lines forming, and a new language, let's call it Broadwayan is formed. Selam! আপনি কেমন আছেন, thử 宝 ? It’s approximately noon, according to the sun’s placement on the sky right. Today I’m a visitor at the Democratic Weekend Nation of Broadway Market.March 23, from an endless pace of footstepsAccompanied by&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTw-NrqKigs" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Opal - For Tet Remix</a>Hazal

A weekly journal of neighbourhoods to dig into urban culture, people stories, and sociocultural dynamics. In every issue, we meet an inhabitant in their hood where they live, create or belong.

A weekly journal of neighbourhoods to dig into urban culture, people stories, and sociocultural dynamics.

Soli

Neighborhood: Hackney. Local: Nivi Jasa. Venue: Broadway Market.

📍 Hackney, Broadway Market • Nivi Jasa

Spring, 2023. 163 acres of land. In between Topkapı Palace and Sarayburnu. Green as far as the eye can see. But I feel blue. I am in the middle of one of the biggest parks in Istanbul: Gülhane. The witness of Tanzimat Edict, of the Spring and Flower Festival, of the Archeology Museum. Whose is it today?&nbsp;A couple, younger than the cedar trees, looking at the view where the trees sway in the sky like the arteries of the city. Long-bearded old men walking on the back of their shoes are in a hurry. Children calmly pass by. Some of them have bagels in their hands, handed to them by their parents and eaten without appetite. On one side are tourists with bags of Turkish delight and candy walking without knowing where they are going. A child holding a Turkish flag, questioning whether Atatürk spoke to the trees in the park.&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/5/1678435023630.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">To Cankurtaran<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">"The number of foreign tourists coming to Istanbul in 2022 was 16 million 18 thousand 726, an increase of 77 percent compared to the previous year. Fatih hosted more than 29 million tourists in the first 8 months of last year." These things came to my mind while my eyes followed the hotel signs and my ears followed the hum of the tram and the crowd. Armada, Sumengen, Sultan, Avrasya, Blu. "When the data for 2021 is analyzed, we see that the highest number of overnight stays in Istanbul is Fatih with a number over 4 million." There are 2878 tourism facilities in Fatih. Or was it 278? I found the answer when I stopped in front of the market called "Discount", in English.&nbsp;Today, I passed one stop, a few centuries, and I don't know how many areas are occupied by touristic facilities. From Gülhane to Giritli, where hope and despair stand side by side waiting for tulip bulbs to bloom. I walked towards Ayşe’s (Şensılay) house, the heart of Cankurtaran which is one of 57 neighborhoods of the Fatih district, the furthest point of the Historical Peninsula. To reduce the noise of the madding crowd and listen to the sounds of the neighborhood. Loudly.From Gülhane to Giritli.Istanbul, March 9, 2023Elif

Neighborhood: Cankurtaran. Local: Ayşe Şensılay.

📍 Cankurtaran, Ayşe Şensılay

In a city where the foxes are asleep during the daytime, location unknown, before they scatter into the night; buses wait at the stops in order to change the driver, even out the traffic; pubs take the last food orders around 10:00 p.m., drinks at 11:00 p.m. on a Friday night; cats do not&nbsp;meow,&nbsp;dogs don’t bark, cars rarely toot and people seldom yell, the streets of Dalston are lively, cacophonous, relentless.Ridley Road Market is in a rush. The food vendors are setting the price tags. Avocados are £1.5 for 2, and 6 lemons are worth the same price. Mustaf is wrapping up the falafels for those who crave them in the morning, the horde starts gathering around the stalls, and shopping trolleys are filled with green, orange and red vegetables. "Why there is no blue food?", one wonders. No, the eggplants are purple and even though they are called blueberries, they are purple as well.&nbsp;The fetid smell of freshly cut meat and caught haddock is in the background. On a few steps up, on the first floor, Ridley Road Social Club changes the mood. The odor is a mixture of bay leaf, peppercorns and clove added to the soup. It needs to cook for about four hours. A few steps down, Ridley Road Market Bar is closed, black trash bags blocking the entrance door, revealing the previous night’s usual suspects: limes from ginger mojito, chopsticks from Okonomiyaki, broken gin, whisky, martini bottles.<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/1/4/1675326942702.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Dalston</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">The escalating pace between Junction and Kingsland stations; the shops where everything even a toilet pump on a Christmas day can be found; the unintentional waiting lines formed because someone bumped into a friend from work, daycare, or school in front of the market; Tuesday swing dance at The Scolt Head; the backgammon tournaments at The Talbot; daytime co-work tables at De Beauvoir Arms; reading Sylvia Plath sitting on a bench at De Beauvoir Rose Garden; Northchurch Road houses; finding a mid-century end table at 2an4Vintage; a glass of Fernao Pires at WeinoBib; long leafed parsley; yenibahar for homemade dolma, the colors and patterns on fabrics rolled neatly on the shelves, the full moon on the sky or on the ceiling of Brilliant Corners. These are just some of my favorite Dalston things.February 1, from the morning after the day before.Accompanied by&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUzDPhpNPFEJWHSdriQfZAQ" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Esbjörn Svensson Trio</a>Hazal

Neighborhood: Dalston. Local: Kirsty Tinkler.

📍 Dalston, Kirsty Tinkler

Early morning. The most crucial time of the day. Tarpaulins, heavy iron sticks and the ropes that bind them are the tools needed to construct the roof of one of the oldest gathering places in human history in the narrow streets of the neighborhood, which are occupied with different purposes for the remaining six days of the week. These are the fixed elements of this nomadic structure. Then there is the labor, bargaining, land, crops and realities that fill it. The physical space it occupies, one or several streets of the neighborhood and the height up to the tarpaulins. And it will take some time to calculate the area it occupies in the city. For sure.&nbsp;The distance from the clean Black Sea coast to Tarlabaşı and the space covered by the plastic crates of&nbsp;ispit transported along this distance; the weight of Larissa's cookie recipes, who knows how old the recipe is, which she carried from Ukraine to Kurdela Street; and the length of the list of products she put on sale that day, written in Cyrillic; the distance that the anchovies, horse mackerel and chinook that fisherman Murat put on the counter traveled on time at sea and then on land despite all the hunters; the weight of Ezine cheese that Ömer brought from Çanakkale and the time it took until the best Ezine recipe was found; the waiting time for a mixed gözleme with spinach, cheese and potatoes; the number of walnuts cracked to be tasted by the customers; all the similarities between two neighboring neighborhoods and the centuries it took for them to accept each other.<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/0/2/1674571239324.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.51" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Permanent and temporary in Kasımpaşa İnebolu Pazarı</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Can all this give a measure of the area covered by a neighborhood market, pazar? Can the temporary market, where the village and the city, the seller and the buyer, the buying and the giving, the exchange of economic, social and cultural layers take place, be the most concrete resister or supporter of a neighborhood's gentrification movement? If we were to redefine the marketplace today, would it be enough to call it the place where we meet all together in between realities of the neighborhood?&nbsp;Yes. At least today. The acrid and sour smell of olive oil, the taste of bitter black tea, the pink of plastic bags the color of ispit root; the waves of inward, outward and inward migration of the 1960s and 2010s, the transition from 19th-century housing to gentrified 21st-century residences is the memory of walking along Dolapdere in and between Kasımpaşa İnebolu and Tarlabaşı markets. Last Sunday we met Italo (Rondinella) and Kornelia (Binicewicz) in Kasımpaşa İnebolu Pazarı, on Turşucu Bayram Street. Chestnut mushrooms and baby spinach in a pink plastic bag. We ordered four ince belli&nbsp;cups of tea. Then we headed towards Tarlabaşı.&nbsp;Tag along,Elif

Route: Pazar-hopping in Istanbul. Locals: Kornelia Binicewicz and Italo Rondinella.

🚏 ROUTE: PAZAR-HOPPING IN ISTANBUL

The ones under the ground are traveling inside rectangular boxes, buried in the screens in their palms. On this stratum, they differentiate from one another as the ones who disembark, who get on, who give their seats, who follow another’s book pages with their glance, who raise their voice to the one who is already aloud, who chafe at swinging legs, who take their tongues out to the kid across, who give out sound music from their headphones, who are humming the song they are listening to, filling the train car with the stinky food they had eaten. They unite when it comes to waiting for the announcement of the station they would get off. On the surface, those on the terra firma are in a rush. They stop on the red, cross on the yellow, accelerate on the green, walk amongst the high-rise buildings, and race against the time not to be late to classes, meetings, rendez-vous. <img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/0/1/1674462527112.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Gayrettepe</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">The ones above are stacked behind sealed windows, sitting around a round table connecting to other zones, skies, and seasons. The sound reaches nine hours ahead with a delay of a few seconds. “Could you repeat the last sentence?”, asks the one taking notes.&nbsp;On the second floor, cards are distributed on the axis of the elliptical table, the maid gets old, the eights get crazy, and those who are ready to win the rummy kiss their dices of luck.&nbsp;On the forth - button 3 with the elevator - floor, the celeriac is roasting in the oven; because there is no tahini, the dressing is soy.&nbsp;At the downhill, the beer is being brewed in the factory. Triple-cooked potatoes would be toothsome with it. The handbags are removed from wooden chairs on the corner of the street because friends join the squad. Bean salad with red onions is passing through the table while bread pieces float in the salad dressing.&nbsp;This is an ordinary, habitual, usual, accustomed day in Gayrettepe.Hazal

Neighborhood: Gayrettepe. A local and the narrator: Ceyda Artun.

📍 Gayrettepe, Ceyda Artun

Conjointly inhabited, isolated area where buildings are stationed in a row, side to side and in an adjacent order; where recesses opened to concrete gardens; oxygen per cubic meter is reduced from the first hours of the morning until noon; the first objects to be seen on the pavements are respectively a car tire, a ripped trash bag, a left shoe, an old cable, the remote control thrown away because it is incapable of switching channels, a dead battery. The ambulance siren and crowd cacophony are fixed noises in the backdrop. This is a pessimistic reading of the metropolis.But what if we defined cities by steps walked instead of kilometers, square meters, and parcels traversed? Would we come across the fig tree, one hundred and twenty-two steps away from the doorstep? What if, forty-eight steps later, we bumped into aunty Süreyya who would give us her recipe for a stew, dessert or jam depending on the variety? In two hundred and fifty steps, on the street named after some doctor, could the smell of salt water mixed with the pine, make us forget the day ahead filled up with to-do lists?&nbsp;<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/0/5/1673630845416.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Moda streets</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Seventy-seven steps south onto the doctor-something street, glances are turning towards a wicker basket hanging from the building with Mr Somebody’s name carved in front, like most of buildings in Istanbul are named after. The starting point of the rope fastened with sailor knots is unknown. Next to the 100 Turkish liras there is a note that says 2 lemons, 1 box of spaghetti, and 6 medium-sized tomatoes. The note is written on a piece of paper torn from a striped notebook. At this moment, the pillar of the neighborhood, Mr.-somebody, leaves the grocery store also known as the market/ the buffet/the tobacco shop open 20 hours a day. The supplies are placed scatteredly in the basket. He pulls several times from the rope, dinner ascends to the sky. Three hundred and forty-one, two hundred seventy-seven, no, seventy-nine steps later, you are facing the sunset, intuitively.For four hundred steps, while the smell of onions, garlic, and tomato paste diffuse from the kitchen and the sound of series, news, documentary, and marriage programs coming from TV’s on the ground floors blend; the night is no more the harbinger of the sun going down, but of the full moon, the street lights, the life behind the curtains, and the pantone of an altered light source. Now, the city is neither the abode of those who start the night as a hot mess nor those who start the morning in haste. The night is lustrous.Follow us,Hazal

<h1 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">All blue:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3FS4WCf" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Mavi</a></h1> Mavi is proud to make it to&nbsp;CDP’s (Carbon Disclosure Project) Global A List&nbsp;in the Climate Change category, where only 283 companies are included among 20000 candidates.The first and only ready-made garment company from Turkey on the list, Mavi&nbsp;is developing its eco-friendly All Blue&nbsp;strategy in order to fulfill its goals of designing its full denim range out of All Blue materials by 2030 and becoming a climate-positive company by 2050.You can visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3GedXG1" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here</a> to find out more about Mavi’s All Blue strategy.

25 Aralık - Mavi - İstanbul EN 

Neighborhood: Caferağa. A local and the narrator: Burak Ayaz. 

🌕 Caferağa, Burak Ayaz

This year we wondered around Istanbul's most cosmopolitan neighbourhood: Kurtuluş with Utku. History permeates Kurtuluş today. The neighbourhood where non-Muslims and Muslims, Armenians, Greeks, Jews, and Roma people once lived together is a place where the communities that are seen as "minorities" in today's world are the voice of the majority; where they do not have to speak in whispers; where they can continue their lives on the street, not behind drawn curtains. At Pera, wondering around with Anlam it was impossible to choose just one piece of music, the first ones that came to mind were Rebetiko, İnsanlar'dan Kime Ne, Janet &amp; Jak Esim songs that make the heart tremble and of course church bells. Çemberlitaş was a part of the Istanbul Biennial, and so were we. The binding workshop founded by Emin Barın, where countless books have been meticulously bound by craftspeople since the 1950s were st,ll operation inside the han. The history of Mr Pandeli, a Greek from Niğde lived in Rüstem Paşa with Pandeli.<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2022/11/5/1671788715915.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.67" width="550" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Dreaming of the 2023 summer</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">In 2022 our journey started in Istanbul where we belong, to change the way of seeing our city. Do we have to go far to travel? By visiting the adjacent neighbourhood, can we be awakened? Maybe a quick conversation with a neighbour could transform our perception. And it did.Now, we are in our second home, London, walking around the streets and rediscovering how we journey, thinking about where the next stop will be, and who is going to guide us into the unknown territories.Tag along, let’s redefine travel culture.From Soli with curiosity

<h1 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">A new shopping experience: <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.sneaksup.com/" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Sneaks Up Campus</a>&nbsp;</h1> Inspired by the city, street culture, and basketball;&nbsp;Sneaks Up&nbsp;opens its newest&nbsp;Campus store in&nbsp;Akasya AVM, Üsküdar.Sneaks Up Campus:&nbsp;Inspiring its visitors with experience zones, the Campus&nbsp;stores offer an innovative shopping experience with DJ performances, customized products, dance and basketball workshops, and more.&nbsp;What to see?&nbsp;Offering experience areas designed for PlayStation games, skateboarding, and basketball; the new Campus&nbsp;store in&nbsp;Akasya AVM also hosts a&nbsp;Custom Studio where visitors can make their own, customized products.You may visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.sneaksup.com/" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">this link</a> or Akasya AVM to join Sneaks Up’s dynamic world.&nbsp;

23 Kasım - Sneaks Up - Fanon EN

We will continue to seek and learn the neighbourhoods from their locals, follow us.

🌍 1 year: 11 Neighbourhood, 28 locals

Hackney Wick was a town where daytime factory workers and artists returning home in the evening met at bus stops. A place where warehouses were communal living and production spaces and where there was not so much sign of life other than people returning home from nameless parties. Once home to foxes and dogs as pets, Hackney Wick became one of the recent targets of urban regeneration after the opening of the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2022/11/1/1670847561635.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85098); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Boat homes parked on the Lee River</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Tagged closed shutters have become real estate agents, and photos of houses sold for £500-600-700 thousand are on display. Around the corner, we come across Oslo House under the sign of Hackney Wick. We will meet with <a fr-original-style="" href="https://instagram.com/mericcanatan?igshid=YTY2NzY3YTc=" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Meriç</a> (Canatan), one of the residents of this commune who resists transformation, does not want to give up the culture of cohabiting and has won for now. Soon.Hazal

<h1 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Sezen Aksu’s story to exhibit at&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://xmediaartmuseum.com/sezen-aksu/" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">X Media Art Museum by DasDas</a></h1><img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2022/11/5/1671191913958.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="Infinity" width="550" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">X Media Art Museum, Turkey’s first high-tech digital art museum, is hosting an immersive exhibition diving deeper into&nbsp;Sezen Aksu’s life.What is it?&nbsp;Sponsored by&nbsp;Fuga Mobilya and open until March 2023, the exhibition compiled of different experiences focuses on Sezen Aksu’s inspirational biography including her rise to fame after her arrival to Istanbul in the 70s, her creative period in the 80s, her pop music era in the 90s, and her bolder stance during the 2000s.&nbsp;Noted: Areas designated for different experiences allow the visitors to write their own notes to the artist, creating a collaborative and interactive ground.You may visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://xmediaartmuseum.com/sezen-aksu/" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">this link</a> for further information and tickets.&nbsp;

13 Kasım - DasDas - İstanbul EN

We wander around Wick warehouses, courtyards and marketplaces. We are talking about the importance of communication between the regular and the newcomer in the neighbourhood transformation, and the possibility of transformation together.

🎧 Hackney Wick (Wick, as the locals call it)

Where does history live? In the curricula of school books, on library shelves divided into neat sections, on the front page of&nbsp;Nokta&nbsp;magazine hidden among dusty layers in bookshops, on the pages of Ana Britannica collected fascicle by fascicle, on the pages of Meydan Larousse Büyük Lugat, in the recordings of&nbsp;32. Gün&nbsp;that you come across on YouTube, or in the lines of fairy tales, fables, voices recorded on cassettes, dictaphones? Does the story of a day, of a life, go down in history when written down, or does it pass down from generation to generation, from person to person, through words and sounds? Is it writing or telling that keeps history alive? Is it definite and unchangeable? Can it be bent, twisted, and shaped by reminiscences? Can a history take itself wherever it goes? Is it supposed to remain constant? Can it be broken down into its personal and social components? Is it part of the whole that is brought together by invisible threads? Is one obliged to remember history or forget it, to evolve into the future? When we consider that the period that is part of the past while we are still alive is one of the layers of history, maybe we can say that the present, which is the first stage of the future, cannot exist without the past.History lives in the totality of words written on the painted wall, in the notes on the back of photographs pasted in albums, in letters without envelopes, in VHS tapes, sometimes in the smell of dampness, sometimes in the smell of lentil soup mixed with soap, in the first three notes of a song, in the voice you hear in your mind but cannot pronounce, in the discussions that intermingle as you switch from channel to channel on television.<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2022/11/5/1670569473069.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Pandeli</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Today, we are in the place known in the history as the place at the end of the stairs from the Spice Bazaar for some, as the restaurant with a Michelin Star for others, as the warmth of the oven for some others, and as the corner where Mr Pandeli pulls out his chair for many more. In Rüstem Paşa, on a journey of the history of Istanbul.Follow us,Hazal

<h1 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Bir Işık Hüzmesi Üzerine exhibits at&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/ibbtaksimsanat/" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Taksim Sanat</a></h1>Curated by Begüm Güney, the exhibition Bir Işık Hüzmesi Üzerine is open to visitors until&nbsp;30 December&nbsp;at Taksim Sanat, the exhibition zone of Kültür AŞ by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality.Consisting of surreal works by 17 different artists, the exhibition hosts the works of Sümer Sayın, Serkan Demir, Gözde Mulla, Bilal Yılmaz, Ahmet Öğüt, Ece Kibaroğlu, Nergiz Yeşil, Esin Aykanat Avcı, Ali Şentürk, Fulya Çetin/Sine Ergün, Sergen Şehitoğlu, Mehmet Dere, Özge Yağcı, Osman Dinç, Berkay Tuncay&nbsp;and Özden Demir.You can visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://kultur.istanbul/bir-isik-huzmesi-uzerine-sergisi-taksim-sanatta-ziyaretcilerini-bekliyor/" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">this link</a> to find out more about the exhibition and follow&nbsp;Kültür AŞ <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/kultur_istanbul/" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here</a> to keep up with the latest activities in Istanbul.

11 Aralık - İBB Kültür AŞ - İstanbul EN

Pandeli, who started as a porter, first captured the heart of its neighbourhood and then the heart of Istanbul, and the restaurant whose regulars still keep his vision alive.

🔹 Stop by the Spice Bazaar: Pandeli

Between September 17 and November 20, we stroll around <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1iYWxhdA%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw3JdonSVu2Ih_RD2KRxPinu" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1iYWxhdA==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Balat</a>, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1jZW1iZXJsaXRhcw%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw14gLyQsJjESu1nocb94x_P" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1jZW1iZXJsaXRhcw==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Çemberlitaş</a>, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1zaXJhc2VsdmlsZXI%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw3Cm1us0Py0YLVr0hw6bY4Q" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1zaXJhc2VsdmlsZXI=" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Sıraselviler</a>, Tophane, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC15ZWxkZWdpcm1lbmk%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw1fcVJYxtibi9XgSqhfUyk9" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC15ZWxkZWdpcm1lbmk=" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Yeldeğirmeni</a> and <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC16ZXl0aW5idXJudQ%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw2aVyp_T0C_UOt0jnugIsGY" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC16ZXl0aW5idXJudQ==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Zeytinburnu</a> for the 17th Istanbul Biennial. This year’s biennial takes its inspiration from compost, a natural fertilisation method in which many different organic wastes are brought together and decomposed. We stroll around these neighbourhoods one more time, but this time for the Biennial, we enter streets we frequent less and peek through the doors of the buildings whose names we have just heard of. This time, we let our eyes roam over the city we are native of, like travellers. When our feet get tired, but not our minds, we catch our breath in a café where locals sit. It is the curiosity that makes our feet stand back up again. We feel homely and then unhomely again. We swing around the authentic and the cliché, the old and the new, the traditional and the modern, the nostalgic and the futuristic, between the black and the white of the six neighbourhoods where the 17th Istanbul Biennial is spread.&nbsp;‘Can the streets be audible and/or silent narrators of the neighbourhood at the same time?’. This question is on our minds as we traverse the streets again and again. We continue on our route through artisan and artist workshops, streets, parks, restaurants, shops, and cultural centres to better understand and read the neighbourhoods and become a participant in their everyday culture.<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2022/9/4/1665049224923.jpeg" width="550" tabindex="0" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.80" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Tophane windows<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">This week the route takes us to the&nbsp;Tophane neighbourhood. We stop by Tophane's biennial venues&nbsp;performistanbul,&nbsp;Büyükdere35, from Boğazkesen to Lüleci Hendek, and then we walk up Dibek Street and Defterdar Yokuşu. Famously, Istanbul has 7 hills, and we feel it. We take a breather on the streets overlooking the sea and walk through the streets of Tophane.Follow us,Soli team

<h1 fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3Dzet0f" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Koç Holding</a>&nbsp;welcomes art enthusiasts to the&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3Ss28zx" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">17th Istanbul Biennial</a></h1> Organized by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (İKSV) since 1987 and sponsored by Koç Holding since 2007, the 17th edition of the Istanbul Biennial continues.The Biennial, which will be open to public visit until 20 November, is prepared with a different approach in this edition due to the pandemic precautions as well as its one-year delay.The 17th Istanbul Biennial meets its viewers in various <a fr-original-style="" href="https://bienal.iksv.org/tr/17-istanbul-bienali/mekanlar" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">spots</a> of the city such as bookstores, hospitals, nursing homes, cafes, metro stations, and Açık Radyo.&nbsp;An avid supporter of culture and arts, Koç Holding is happy to sponsor the Istanbul Biennial by 2036. To find the short film focusing on the healing and transformative qualities of art, you may visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQsmVol36bI&ab_channel=Ko%C3%A7Holding" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">this link.</a>&nbsp;

Ekim - Koç Holding x İstanbul Bineali - Soli ing

Six neighbourhoods to host the 17th Istanbul Biennial: Balat, Çemberlitaş, Sıraselviler, Tophane, Yeldeğirmeni, Zeytinburnu. We are wandering the city we live in as travellers. Today the route takes us to: Tophane

🗺 Soli is at the 17th Istanbul Biennial: Tophane

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<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I live in London but I am from Milan in my heart. I miss Italian architecture and dolce vita AKA easy living. Given my mixed background —my parents are Albanian and past cities I've lived in Milan, Istanbul, and now London— I feel that I still need to find the place where I want to settle. So far, NYC and Barcelona are on the top.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I have recently found inspiration at &nbsp;The Castel Cinema which is a beautifully crafted little cinema in Homerton. The bar makes you feel like you are in the 1920s (it opened in 1913!). Super retro cool vibe with a diverse movie selection, some of which are even played in 16mm format.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">After living 6 years in London, I have just discovered: that I love coffee! I was never into coffee back in Italy as it was too strong, usually, they only drink espresso, and only here I started drinking coffee thanks to latté, flat white, dirty chai, etc.&nbsp;</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I love walking around&nbsp;Victoria Park with Angela (my partner) and Cliff (our lovely dog). It's a wide and open space, with plenty of greenery, little ponds, and secret gardens.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I mostly shop vintage. A sustainable shop I like to cruise around: Paper Dress Vintage.&nbsp;</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">A Londoner you must meet is Lawrence from Hackney Bread Kitchen. He is a professor who bakes at the back of his house in Hackney out of passion. The best focaccia you'll ever eat in the whole UK (and I can say this because I'm Italian). Not only he's super friendly, and into movies (he reminds me of David Lynch), but the passion that he puts in what he bakes is truly inspiring and deserves all the credits for it!</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Only a true Londoner would know where to get good coffee on a rainy day and. One of my favourite local hangouts is: Dark Arts Coffee Shop.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">In this erratic city, I complain the most about passive-aggressiveness.&nbsp;It's still something I can't understand and don't tolerate, but besides that, even the weather is not that bad, so I try not to complain too much.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">When I want to escape big city life:&nbsp;I go to Margate, a half plus one hour's train ride from London. Seems a bit like a copy of East London but more chilled and less busy. Lots of unique vintage shops, antiques, great food, and cute coffee and you get an amazing view of cliffs and sea.</li></ul>

Nivi Jasa

Neighborhood: Hackney. Venue: Broadway Market.&nbsp;Local:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/nivijasa/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Nivi Jasa</a>. Words by: <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/anlamarama/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Hazal Yılmaz</a>. Photos by:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/alpergoldenberg/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Alper Goldenberg</a>.What makes a neighborhood a desired landscape to live in, a community to belong? What is the je-ne-sais quoi that makes one choose to live in a space defined by postcodes yet separated from the adjacent street with a hunch? Is it the proximity to the schools, parking lot, a 24/7 open shop or on the contrary the isolation, the silence, the tranquility, the non-sound? Is it the closeness to the sky versus the soil? To some, it would be the ecosystem that surrounds it. The susurration of waves hitting the shore, the wind howling on the cherry tree branches, a little egret looking for their next food alongside the lake. A ramp? Not the first choice unless the house, flat, or apartment in question is located all the way up, maybe looking down to a bewildering panorama.&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/3/1679470715378.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Fantom of the neighborhood<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">For a common human being living within the peripheries of E8 (Between Hackney Downs Park on the north, Haggerston in the south, Dalston Junction defining east and Well Street west including London Fields, unfortunately excluding My Neighbours The Dumplings to those who are not familiar) this question mostly would be answered by the closeness to Broadway Market; on weekdays the intersection of morning people running, getting their coffee from Climpson &amp; Sons; noon sightseers chasing a place in front of L'Eau à la Bouche, afternoon tourers settling down at Dove with an Annie Ernaux book published by Fitzcarraldo Editions, bought from The Broadway Bookstore, night comers having a little drink at Off Broadway before heading at home or a Wednesday jazz night at NT’s Loft and on weekends where Mali rhythms are heard while eating baklava accompanied by Vietnamese coffee, where the cultures, languages, traditions, affirmations, and exclamations intermingle to form a brand new, temporary Democratic Weekend Nation of Broadway Market.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/3/1679470576243.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">A sneak peek of the Democratic Weekend Nation of Broadway Market<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Broadway Market reminiscences</h2>For the last five decades, East London harbors many different cultures such as Gypsies passing through; Greek, Turkish, Caribbean and African communities. Once upon a time a Victorian street market called Trinovantum by "Brutus the Trojan", was a busy cart track road that help to bring food supplies to London around 3,000 years ago, as well as cattle from Essex and Epping Forest to slaughter. Part of the old "Porter's Path", a merchant's route between Hackney and Shoreditch, the street has existed since Roman times with changing uses.&nbsp;The historic pedestrian route; Broadway Market was not only a vital supply route for a rapidly growing settlement but also an important area for supplying Phoenician merchant ships moored in the ancient London Pool. Still known today as the "Porter's Way", it was used to transport supplies from the rich pasture and wheat fields along the Lea Valley. The market stretched from the Isle of Dogs (Welsh: Ynys Dociau) and Billingsgate (King Belin's Gate) to what is now London Bridge. Until the 1980s, the roads through Hackney were all chained and padlocked between Friday afternoon and Monday morning to prevent the passage of private vessels. Rumor has it that the river was opened to the public after a group of people wanted to swim there at the weekends, and gradually the streets we travel today began to form.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/3/1679470822460.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">The rallying place: Broadway Market<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">After the 1979 financial collapse, a Victorian-themed carnival was organized by two shopkeepers to keep Broadway Market afloat, to which all residents were invited. In 2004, 25 years after the carnival, the roads were closed to traffic and the market was designed by the Broadway Market Residents and Traders Association (BMRTA) so that it would not affect neighboring markets.&nbsp;<h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.iamnutok.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">I am Nut Ok</a>: A vegan addition to the market space</h2>Nivi and Angela start I am Nut Ok at the adjacent street which is the school courtyard on weekdays. “By then it was a vegan market,”&nbsp;Nivi says. On the contrary of regular arrangements in which you have to apply, and pass through an assessment period before being admitted as a permanent vendor at the main street, Broadway Market Residents and Traders Association (BMRTA) invites them. “We were creating something unique, artisan vegan cheese, and this was missing from the grand total,” he says. A taste, even for non-vegans, indistinguishable from what they were used to, made from cow, buffalo or goat milk.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/3/1679489933016.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Give a few bites for this vegan cheesecake<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">“I think London is really East-focused and diverse when it comes to vegan food. As soon as you move West, the options are fewer. The East offering is more diverse, from Nepalese to Ethiopian, Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine; West feels quite posh and (still good) but more classic; South has always been more Caribbean,”&nbsp;Nivi mentions, which makes me think about the effects of food on understanding culture(s) surrounding us, how through taste, smell and flavor we are more open-mindedly drawn.“Business-wise, I have to say that it has been an advantage having so many various traders around us, as it helped us grow faster and diversify our channels,” mentions Nivi about starting from a market stall before establishing a permanent place in Broadway Market.&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/3/1679489975057.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.80" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Broadway Market localsPhoto: Hazal Yılmaz<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://thirdculturedeli.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Third Culture</a>: A plant-based deli on its permanent place&nbsp;</h2>I ask Nivi how the vegan scene from when they started at the Courtyard Market to today has changed. “A lot,” he says. In 2016, considered a dietary restriction, today a political statement, London’s, especially East London’s approach to veganism has changed a lot. It is easily noticed in daily life, through food. “Back in 2016 there were just a few vegan options and now you can basically enter almost every restaurant and find a broad selection. Because there is demand, chefs and tastemakers try to come up with new recipes, and taste palettes. Surprisingly, when we decided to open our deli in Broadway Market, there wasn't a single plant-based restaurant in the street, so we almost felt obliged. Third Culture Deli is an American-style diner combining Italian soul with plant-based recipes. The classic clam chowder soup is made from corn, to recreate another diner classic, the Reuben sandwich we use seitan. Every day either we transform non-vegan flavors and veganize them or we create new recipes,”&nbsp;he answers.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/3/1679471191512.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Nivi in front of Third Culture<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">I finish my Caprese sandwich made with Bluffalo notzarella and return to the open market area. Standing in front of the onigiri stall now, there is a distinct BBQ smell in the air. Once the last place for hungry farm animals to graze overnight, Broadway Market’s (culpable!) past is only visible through street and pub names nowadays. Sheep Lane, Lamb Lane and the Cat &amp; Mutton Pub to name a few. Once the midpoint of animals proceeding to the slaughterhouse, today Broadway Market is the intersection and pioneer of an ever-changing culture. In three, five, or ten years, can we talk about a vegan Democratic Weekend Nation of Broadway Market? Probably, in my opinion. &nbsp;

Democratic Weekend Nation of Broadway Market

<h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.facing-heaven.com" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Facing Heaven</a></h2>Cuisine: Reborn Sichuanese food concept from LA chef Julian DenisInfluenced by Cantonese, Yunnan and Shaanxi cuisines, Facing Heaven is a vegan’s go-to place. Especially before and after a long night out. Garlic and sesame oil “spanked cucumber”, purple gong bao broccoli at the center, dan dan noodles in front, msg margarita or organic wine in the hand. What else could you ask for?&nbsp;Where:&nbsp;1A Bayford Street E8 3SEHeads-up: It’s named after Sichuanese "facing heaven" pepper. This means hot, spicy food all over.&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/pockets_uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Pocket’s</a></h2>Cuisine: Falafel aka Middle Eastern street food⁣⁣It’s pretty rare you can convince a hungry, hang-over Londoner to wait in queue for food for more than ten minutes. But that’s exactly what Pockets do on any given Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Starting cooking these delicacies at Oxford, followed by Chatsworth Road Market, they made (lucky for us) their way into Netil Market in November 2020. And since their debut, there is no single day or hour we can bypass the queue to attain the ultimate goal: falafel pita. It’s not just the falafel, it’s the union of fluffy pita bread, crunchy green falafels, the classified sauce we finally dared to ask and learned was mango-based, hummus, tahini, garnishing and the final touch: boiled, roasted, fried potato slice.Where: Netil Market, Thursday-Sunday from 11:00 a.m.Heads-up:&nbsp; It takes about 2 minutes to layer impeccably one falafel pita. Yes, we timed it! Be prepared to wait in line for about 40 minutes.<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.okko-uk.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">OKKO</a></h2>Cuisine: Izakaya. Pacific Japanese plates from Hakata to HawaiiIf you are lucky enough to find a table outside of OKKO on a sunny London afternoon. Just keep it and keep the food coming. Our suggestion is to start with mixed pickles (including daikon) followed by Crunchy vegan roll, homemade gyoza and ramen accompanied with a nice bottle of sake of course. The lunch would turn into dinner and before you know it you are ordering Yamazaki 12 years. &nbsp;Where: 10-12 Broadway Market Mews London E8 4TSHeads-up: Okko is open every day, between 12:00-10:00 p.m. on Saturdays and 12:00-9:00 p.m. on Sundays, non-stop.&nbsp;&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://thirdculturedeli.com" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Third Culture Deli</a></h2>Cuisine:&nbsp;Italian American deli classics with a plant-based twistThe only place where you can have Rueben made from seitan seasoned with Russian sauce and American style I am Nut Ok cheese; Caprese using Bluffalo Notzarella in focaccia seasoned with green pesto and you can also buy from the deli counter to keep company for your wine and dine nights in.&nbsp;Where: 29 Broadway Market, London E8 4PHHeads-up: If you time yourself well, you can have corn chowder soup and arancini balls with a cocktail. &nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://marestreetmarket.com" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Mare Street Market</a></h2>Cuisine: Diner meets café meets tapasA hip, leafy market, co-work space with shared tables during the day, loud and dance music by night. To some, this is the ultimate weekday hang-out where you can listen to Stranger Than Paradise tunes, to others, a brunch spot with long-time not seen friends. One thing is certain: Order a chipotle black bean burger w/ white cabbage slaw, sriracha, and pickles accompanied by fries.&nbsp;Where: 117 Mare St, London E8 4RUHeads-up: If you are looking for quiet, I need to have a couple of meetings online or IRL kind of co-working place, Mare Street is not it. The volume of the music and conversation is always up here. İdeal for people who are looking for inspiration.&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h3 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Bonus:</h3><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://theapproachtavern.co.uk" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">The Approach Tavern</a></h2>Cuisine:&nbsp;PubWe are no longer in the E8 zone but there is a valid reason for that. Burger, chips and a touch of culture. Situated about 10-12 minutes from Broadway Market, this is one of the neighborhood local pubs where you can meet people at the bar and chat. Beer battered artichokes, and vegan black bean burger w/ coconut cream, mint, salad, “brioche” bun &amp; fries is our selection from the menu.Where: 47 Approach Rd, Bethnal Green, London E2 9LYHeads-up: The Approach Tavern has a gallery on the second floor. Check out the program.&nbsp;

BROADWAY MARKET VEGAN STOPS

<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">My friends call me Ayşe Anne. (“Mother Ayşe”)</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I am a restaurant manager and cook. If I hadn't done that, I would have wanted to take on hotel management, which I am already trained for.&nbsp;</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">According to my friends, my specialty is cooking food. Hospitality, if you ask me.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I live in Cankurtaran in Istanbul, but in my heart I am from Büyükdere.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">If I'm not at home in the neighborhood, I'm usually&nbsp;in Giritli, my restaurant.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">If I find a beloved neighbor in the community I live in, I feel like I belong there.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">In the neighborhood, I like walking on the shore the most because&nbsp;the seaside gives me peace with the smell of iodine and the southwester.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">In the morning, I start my day by drinking mint tea around 7-8 a.m. I don't end the day without a glass of wine.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">When I'm looking for a quick chitchat in the neighborhood, I go out the door.&nbsp;I speak with all the neighbors or the children of the neighborhood.&nbsp;</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Only a true Cankurtaran local, who is fond of their stomach, knows that Giritli is the hood tavern.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">You can find the songs that are currently playing at Giritli in <a fr-original-style="" href="https://open.spotify.com/playlist/3T1XoD2CDksISSM0XoGE80?si=TtHlvZI3T2ysKMyiKBldxQ&nd=1" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">this playlist</a>. This is mostly the ones I gathered during my travels to Greece.</li></ul>

Ayşe Şensılay

Neighborhood: Cankurtaran. Local: Ayşe Şensılay. Location:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/giritlirestoran/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Giritli</a>. Photos:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/denizsabuncu/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Deniz Sabuncu</a>.Surrounded by Sultanahmet and Cağaloğlu, Cankurtaran encompasses Topkapı Palace, Gülhane Park, the Archaeological Museum, Hagia Irene, and Hagia Sophia; it is almost the heart of the Old Peninsula. The neighborhood starts from Akbıyık Mosque on the way down from Sultanahmet and continues until Ahırkapı Lighthouse. The Sultanahmet community is a mixture of day-travelling crowds and tourists, while Cankurtaran has more settled and established inhabitants but also some tradesmen who depend economically on Sultanahmet’s visitors. A cosmopolitan structure is dominant in Cankurtaran. It’s almost like each apartment building represents a different city. Roman people in one building, people from Çorum in another, people from Adıyaman in the building opposite, the list goes on and on.<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/2/5/1677852933082.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Tables from Giritli<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Çilingir at the street, conversation on the doorstep</h2>In Cankurtaran, life is on the streets. At night, when the day trippers withdraw, the night of locals starts as we know it. The neighborhood is full of musicians; everyone, young and old alike, plays an instrument. The sound of an instrumentalist returning from work at 01:00 a.m. can warm you on a rainy night. Doorstep chats are famous here. If it is summer, children play outdoors in the evening. The jolly good fellows of our neighborhood set up their çilingir tables (tables with friends and drinks) on the street corner, chatting and clinking their glasses to better days. The presence of designed hotels and a few local restaurants add to the sweet vibrancy.&nbsp;Kandils (religious holy nights), funerals, and festivities are celebrated together in the neighborhood. Solidarity and cooperation are important values that are binding. This is also one of the fundemental principles of Giritli. We never honor a kandil without giving lokma&nbsp;(dessert with sherbet) and pide (flat bread with meat or cheese) away; offer the things served at weddings or festivities to our close neighbors; if someone has passed away in our neighborhood, their lokma and pide are always made at Giritli.&nbsp;<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/2/5/1677852978065.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Mother Ayşe looks at us from the window of her house, into Giritli's garden<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Meyhane for the regulars: Giritli&nbsp;</h2>So how did Giritli become a local hub of Cankurtaran? It’s thanks to Kasım, the owner of Armada Hotel, who is my childhood friend. I was working in Bodrum as a business manager when he invited me to Istanbul to see Giritli's location. The first memory I have is the reflection of the stained glass inside the building. It took me three months to gather things in Bodrum and open Giritli. Since that day, 18 years ago, Giritli has been here, with the same team, in the same place.Giritli was a restaurant called Alafranga before. The name came from the Levantines living in the neighborhood. With the region's revitalisation, Cankurtaran became a popular destination for foreign representatives. The restaurant dedicated to them didn't last long. This was an indicator of the changes the neighborhood had undergone and would experience further. In fact, one of the reasons why Giritli has been here for so many years is that it appeals to a wider audience.The fact that Cankurtaran is a quieter, calmer neighborhood makes Giritli not just a place to discover on the road, but also a place of regulars. Most nights, at least 5 tables know one another or are acquainted in some way. It's like a social club where locals, neighbors and visitors meet. Those who come to Giritli know the quality of food is constant, the service is gracious and the prices are set. The Michelin Bib Gourmand Award we received this year is an indicator of this sustainability, I believe.&nbsp;<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/2/2/1678183107514.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Yellow, blue, red<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">A tradition connecting the neigborhood: Once upon a time, hıdırellez&nbsp;</h2>About 20 years ago, the first hıdırellez (traditional spring celebration) was organized for the neighborhood in the garage of the Armada Hotel. It was an urban festival, where all the locals would be in the streets alongside people from the surrounding neighborhoods. We would drink, eat the delicacies from Cankurtaran merchants, and accompany the songs of musicians from Macedonia. The festival had only one purpose: celebrating. It did not aim to make a profit, and those who took part in the festival knew that. Everyone in the neighborhood would work for the common joy enjoyed together, that's all.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/5/1678435098444.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.63" width="550" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">In Cankurtaran, kuru pilav is eaten on top of a taxi<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">At one point, the event grew immensely that the municipality moved the festival to the shore stretching to Kumkapı, afterwards, it couldn't keep its spirit. All this work came about when Kasım said, "Let's organize a hıdırellez in this neighborhood."&nbsp;Looking back now, I can better see that the festival has a special place in the history of Cankurtaran, a Roman neighborhood. It was a collective process from beginning to end, precisely what made us feel at home.&nbsp;<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/2/5/1677853008719.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Locals of Cankurtaran<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Is it possible for neighborhoods to remain intact, as they are?</h2>In the crowded and lonely world, we live in today, people need human contact. Smaller and established neighborhoods serve better for this necessity. I grew up in a time when the streets were playgrounds for children, we would draw hopscotch rectangles on the concrete, play dodgeball, game of nine stones, jump hoops, and stay outdoors until our parents called for dinner. Rich or poor, I made my friends on the streets. Nobody, even our parents, questioned what kind of life they led because we lived in the same neigborhood. At the time I am talking about, the city’s population was 2 million, now the population has grown to 20.&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/2/4/1678357158099.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">3 2 1 pose!<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">I seldom ask myself if it is possible for neighborhoods to remain intact, as they are. When you look at it, Cankurtaran is a bygone neighborhood, but its residents are not as bred-in-the-bone as they used to be. Since it is predominantly elderly, as the population changes, the upcoming generation does not embrace the neighborhood as much as the older ones. One of the reasons for this mobility is the fact that Cankurtaran and its adjacent neighborhoods are located in the touristic epidemic zone of Istanbul. Another culture, more ephemeral, short-lived, fleeting is taking shape but Cankurtaran to me is still the heart of old Istanbul: Giritli's house.&nbsp;

The neighborhood where the tables reach out to the street 

Neighborhood: CankurtaranLocation: Next to the Armada Hotel, on the back street of the shore, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.mujdesign.co/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Muj Design</a>.Narrator: Müjde Mısırlı ZotoSubject: To belong or not to belong to Cankurtaran&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">30 years ago, Kasım (my husband) was impressed by the vivacity of the neighborhood and wanted to open a hotel, and we have been here ever since. We lived in a wooden house at the end of the street for 15-16 years. Even though we've decided to move some time ago, we are still bonded to this neighborhood thanks to work. Cankurtaran is effervescent, with music coming from all the corners of the streets. Musicians keep you company on daily walks. In spring and summer, households take out dining tables on the sidewalk and dinners are eaten together on the street.<h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Monday tangos&nbsp;</h2>The opening of Armada Hotel set off a significant change. The 10-15 years after the beginning of the Armada Hotel the neighborhood came to life, and the streets became crowded. Cankurtaran became a common destination for Istanbulites and tourists. For example, tango has been practiced at the hotel every Monday for 30 years, so the audience that follows this has met and embraced Cankurtaran.&nbsp;<h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Not being a Cankurtaran local</h2>Over time, the hotel factor, which had been the driving force of the neighborhood, became the cause of Cankurtaran's demise as the neighborhood popularized. My neighbor of 15 years has to move in the upcoming days because their house was sold for the construction of a hotel. Nowadays instead of homes, you encounter colorful hostels every step of the way. A neighborhood is special because of the people who make it their home. When we force them to move, we erase its soul. Nevertheless, Cankurtaran has managed to preserve itself relatively well compared to other touristic places. I think the most important factor for this is that a place like Sultanahmet, which is visited by almost every tourist, is located below the neighborhood and therefore Cankurtaran does not attract as much attention.&nbsp;

Muj Design

Together with Kasım Zoto, the founder of the <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.armadahotel.com.tr/default_en.asp#" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Armada Hotel</a>, we are once again on his pleasure ferry, the so-called gentleman's boat, which he built in Cankurtaran. This time we watch the neighborhood from the sea, without docking at the shore and lighting the hıdırellez fire: Where is Cankurtaran?For me, Cankurtaran starts from Erol Taş Kahvesi, which is unfortunately closed now. This is an area predominantly inhabited by Roman people who migrated from northern Greece after 1945. Over time, real estate prices increased with tourism, so people sold their properties and left the neighborhood. Nowadays, the tourism-urban balance has changed due to the increasing number of hostels and hotels in the neighborhood. The neighborhood has taken on a structure where its inhabitants cannot stay long even if they settle.&nbsp;<h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">An established hotel and lit fire for the neighborhood</h2>Our being here was actually shaped by the story of the building we are in now. It all started with the restoration of the buildings built by Barbaros Hayrettin Pasha for the Levents on Ahırkapı Street. We have been a part of the neighborhood ever since. I think maintaining the culture of the place you are in depends on getting to know your neighbors and ensuring unity. For this reason, our priority has always been the relationship we have established.&nbsp;The Ahırkapı Hıdrellez Festivals we organize in the neighborhood are the best example of this bond. We wanted to remind Istanbulites of Cankurtaran again, and while doing this, the Roman residing in our neighborhood and the Ahırkapı Roman Orchestra became our biggest supporters. In the early days, the festival had 600 people. In 10 years it reached 100.000 people, but in 2010 we ended the festival for various but mainly security reasons. I would like the next route of hıdırellez to be Sultanahmet. These events that create an environment for sharing are very valuable in terms of connecting neighborhoods.

Armada Hotel

<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Currently, I’m at <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/weinobib/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Weino Bib</a> but if I wasn’t doing that, I would go back to making sculptures.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">According to my friends, I’m a master of making people feel welcome, I like people!</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I live in Hackney but I’m from&nbsp;Sydney in my heart because I’m actually from there and I love that sun!</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">If not at Weino Bib, you can find me at Clissold Park&nbsp;walking my dachshund or at Tây Đô in Shoreditch, enjoying some Vietnamese food.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/gwadakitchen/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Gwada</a>, The Ethiopian place a few doors down from Weino Bib is a local gem. I haven’t tried it yet but I’m excited to. Small business owners should support other small businesses.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Something I can never find in London:&nbsp;Proper Asian food, or a beach.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">My go-to glass of wine is: These days it’s Weino Bib’s Bianco Puglia. It’s a naughty cloudy thing perfect for sliding into the evening.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">On a Sunday afternoon you can find me: Partaking in the English tradition of taking a wintery often blustery walk&nbsp;that finishes at a pub with a pint of flat beer&nbsp;and a Sunday roast.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I have recently found inspiration in Bill Gates' book How to Avoid a Climate Disaster. He, with the help of research from the Gates Foundation, has created an amazing guide to understanding complex issues.&nbsp;</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Here is my current playlist: <a fr-original-style="" href="https://open.spotify.com/playlist/2bS1WzYxzFBSkLwKdpng29?si=OJZyMOTgQwmAKxC4EORTkQ" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Falling Leaves</a></li></ul>

Kirsty Tinkler

Dalston: A little dirty, a little ugly, a little raw

<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/dans.ldn/?hl=en" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Dan’s</a>: A few steps south of the Junction, tucked in the side street sits Dan’s. Dan’s is the perfect neighborhood wine bar. Candles light up the place, dripping and clinging to the sides of the bottles they were erected on. The wine menu is purposefully approachable. The wine list on the wall doesn’t even mention names and appellations, but how the wine will taste: fruity, juicy, dry, etc. It’s made so you can come to enjoy a couple of glasses around a large table, with no fuss.<img src="https://s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/images.aposto.com/2023/1/4/1675338465760.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Dan's</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/hectorslondon/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Hector’s</a>: Hector is a relatively newer addition to the Dalstonite’s evening visit itinerary. It’s a little walk away from the Junction towards De Beauvoir. What makes this small wine bar different is it's effortlessly cool. This is what I think a neighborhood wine bar would look like in Monaco. Granted it’s hard to find a seat on a popular night and it gets a bit loud inside when it’s at capacity, but the wine selection, the vermouths and the charcuterie-heavy snack menu are on point. Not perfect for a first date but rather for a pre-theatre (or a pre-Rio Cinema) booze snooze.<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/peoples_wine/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">People's Wine</a>:&nbsp;People's Wine is a fishbowl-like abode where the delicatessen snacks are written on the wall tiles, again highlighted by its natural wines. It's empty on weekdays, making it the ideal relaxation spot.<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/newcomer_winebar/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Newcomer Wines</a>:&nbsp;Newcomer Wines is one of the newcomers in the neighborhood. Slightly more on the chic side of the spectrum than the sweet side, it is a good alternative with its garden and wide selection of wines.Dalston Wine Bar Crawl is <a fr-original-style="" href="https://decafespresso.substack.com/p/a-guide-the-dalston-natural-wine" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here</a>. Seven wine bars, all walking distance from Dalston Junction, heavily focusing on natural wines and hosting snacks on their menus.

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The neighborhood where the tables reach out to the street

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Kirsty Tinkler

Dalston: A little dirty, a little ugly, a little raw

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