Our route takes us from the vibrant chaos of Taksim Square down to Sıraselviler, along bustling İstiklal Caddesi, through historical Pera, and towards the cultural mosaic of Galata and Karaköy. Passing by a slew of storefronts—India Gate Indian, Vardar Palace, Çılgın AVM, Taksim Meşhur Sarıyer Börekçisi, RX Istanbul, Sahaf Uğur, Kumbasar Fırını, Saatçi Adnan, Sephora, Hafız Mustafa, City Döner, Grand Pera, Atlas Pasajı, Espresso Lab, Zara, Taproomx, Zuhal Müzik, Saltbae Burger, Mahkeme Lokantası, İletim Elektrik, Üçer Boya, Lastik Pabuç, Kahve Dünyası, Galata Simitçisi, and many more—the signs catch the eye. "Where am I now?" The buildings strut their stuff, scents waft through the air, sounds arrive with exquisite sensitivity, evoking memories in their wake. Those who find their memories in Beyoğlu, and those who do not.&nbsp;In Beyoğlu, the dialogue between old and new is vivid among those who meet in its streets, reflecting today’s dynamic, not yesterday’s echo. It’s a narrative of today, pondering what tomorrow may bring. Reading the transformations through Beyoğlu’s shops and the characters within them narrates the tale of İstanbul itself—a city reflecting its economic, political, and cultural shifts right in its heart. To grasp the evolution of Beyoğlu and the reasons behind it, we delve into not just remembering the past, but understanding and imagining what the future holds.This week, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/denizyilmazakman/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Deniz</a> (Yılmaz Akman) roams the streets of Beyoğlu, inquiring how the local shops and esnaf are crucial to preserving the city's memory. Instead of yearning for “old Beyoğlu,” she points to the risk of urban memory loss. She navigates through alternate routes, examining solutions at both micro and macro levels to highlight shifts in change. Visiting local businesses and probing figures behind the İstanbul Metropolitan Municipality's "Beyoğlu Senin" (Beyoğlu is Yours) project, Deniz aims to explore the fate of these enterprises and foster efforts towards their sustainability.Accompanied by <a fr-original-style="" href="https://soundsslike.com/" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Soundsslike</a>Elif&nbsp;

Istanbul based urban culture magazine documenting cities through their neighborhoods and communities. 

A collective and traveling culture magazine uncovering the cities in neighborhoods, with their people. 

Soli

Wandering through Beyoğlu with Deniz, we pop into local shops, sipping strong "esnaf" tea and diving into conversations about the neighborhood's transforming commercial scene, fueled by unity and ownership, not despair.

04.24 Observations: Beyoğlu’s cornerstones and collective memory

In Turkish, officially, a platform, bench, or stall, especially a place of sale within a market. A spot found in a market or street where retail sales are made or where craftspeople conduct their work. In everyday language, it's where one earns a livelihood, and where work is performed. Before offices, it was predominantly the place for business transactions, before shopping malls came into existence. After offices, it metaphorically replaces the term "workplace," fitting seamlessly into the informal and friendly conversation: dükkan.In Shoreditch, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/yalcoryalc/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Ali</a> and <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/yilmazmustafa/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Mustafa</a>’s <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/dukkan.london/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Dükkan</a> is just that, opened in London both for themselves and for others who use food as a common language. It’s where, after moving to London for culinary training, the two chefs not only practice their profession but also provide space for guests engaged in this craft. It’s a hub for those who have moved from Türkiye to London and set up home, for chefs preparing to enter the London food scene, and for those longing to recreate the meals they miss. For some, it’s a meeting place; for others, an incubator, but the common language is food. In this context, the&nbsp;dükkan ideally matches both the informal and official senses of the word, its etymological roots, and the emotions it evokes. In English, there’s no single word that captures both these aspects. For Ali, the dükkan connotes locale, shop talks, one's bread and butter, and hosting guests. For Mustafa, the words that come to mind are shopkeepers, neighborhood, and regulars; which equals intimacy and family. It also intersects with longing and nostalgia. Not a store or shop, but a dükkan: a home extension always open to guests and a hub for craftsmanship. No customers here, but guests.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2024/3/6/1713607158245.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.00" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">From Ali, "Dükkan. Locale. Shop talks. Bread and butter. Guests." Design: Elif Gengör </h4>The dükkan is truly the heart of the neighborhood. "Show me the dükkans in your area, and I’ll tell you what kind of place you're living in." That's why at Soli, we always peek into them whenever we arrive at a neighborhood; they're the neighborhood's megaphones, echoing the local vibe through their welcoming doors and vibrant interactions. Today, our intention as we step into this particular dükkan is to explore its role in serving various communities in London and to understand the significance of food in the stories of today's migrants. And of course, we'll also be tucking Ali and Mustafa’s Shoreditch guide into our bag.Accompanied by <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.nts.live/shows/asher-g/episodes/asher-gs-caribbean-memories-5th-june-2022" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Asher G’s Caribbean Memories</a>Elif

"Dükkan: A home extension always open to guests and a hub for craftsmanship." This week, we explore Dükkan, a spot in Shoreditch that weaves a story of migration, food, and solidarity. Plus, Ali and Mustafa's neighborhood index.

#6 Neighborhood: In Shoreditch at Ali and Mustafa's Dükkan

In a city sculpted over 579 years, where a cathedral that might stand as Gothic architecture's magnum opus commands the center stage; where the paths lead circularly to the 15th century, to 2026, to past and future, that's where I stand. Amidst the northern modesty, where one of the inaugural shopping centers, though not in today's terms, once rose, and where lexicons of design from textiles to automobiles, from materials to style were authored, the splendor sits well, justified by its grandeur. If the key to understanding the contemporary era and envisaging the future lies in acknowledging and sharing the narrative of design, then I am precisely where I ought to be, in Milan.Reflecting from a vantage point more akin to a design aficionado than a designer, I recall my inaugural Milan Design Week expedition. It was a year or so after my 2015 Expo visit. Despite the potential assertions of a diligent follower or design professional regarding its inflation or commercialization post-2015, its rising success among other European design weeks is undeniable. Yet, from an observer's standpoint, one can unearth alternative angles. Milan, a city adorned in the craft of design, weaving heritage and execution into its very fabric. Put differently, design, as a pivotal part of the city's cultural heritage, has naturally evolved into one of its most potent forms of expression, recognized historically as the embodiment of creativity and cultural diversity. This city, having discovered itself in layers through every external engagement during its developmental stride, and having attained its uniqueness, remains an indispensable junction for connection today, the formula in itself.This month, Soli Journal shifts its lens slightly as we rendezvous with two designers in Milan. We delve into the city's exhibition culture, the spaces ingeniously crafted not just for display but for living, propelled by a sort of creative instinct, and the significance of the Milan Design Week, marking its presence in our April calendars. We chat with Utkan about the design week and the city's design districts; we dissect one of the city's layers through Porto Venezia with Derin. We've packed Derin's index and Utkan's agenda. The journey has already commenced.Companion:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.mixcloud.com/Radio80K/keep-on-keepin-on-100823/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Keep on Keepin' On</a>Elif

Eleven steps forward from Porto Venezia, 579 years back, on the left after the imposing doors. In the second half of Soli Journal, we are in pursuit of the genius loci with two designers in the city of Milan.

04.24 Journal: In honor of Milan Design Week

In Istanbul and other beloved cities, Soli Journal brings hidden gems and tucked away events to light at the start of each month. Updates from culture, dining, and hospitality, sometimes intriguing, sometimes inspiring news from the metropolises, impromptu chats with local shopkeepers, and curated lists of essential spots by neighborhood and region; it's all here.What's on? This month in Soli Journal, we're zooming into cultural and artistic happenings in and slightly south of Istanbul, focusing on Milan Design Week. Last call before summer; we're savoring the final moments of our indoor enthusiasm. We're making stops in London, Bristol, Tbilisi, Cully, and Milan, gearing up to welcome the Venice Biennale and spring with festivals. And we're especially thrilled about Cappadox's return.What's happening? What has Istanbul's municipality done for culture and the arts in the last five years? How can pedestrian safety be ensured in big cities? How can old and new shops in the neighborhood collaborate? What happens when a neighborhood becomes a haven for galleries? News, openings, and more from Istanbul, London, Ayvalık, New York.And more:&nbsp;We continue to celebrate the arrival of spring. Our beloved neighborhood pub and listening bar, taproomx’s <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/somx_brewery/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">SOMX</a>, is participating in the Mikkeller Beer Celebration Copenhagen on May 8. Heads up for those wanting to add it to their schedule. Not a day goes by without another venue in Istanbul being affected by the real estate crisis; <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/emi.istanbul/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">emi&nbsp;</a>is moving its home from Cihangir to another neighborhood in Beyoğlu, Müeyyedzade. Grand opening coming soon. Notes on Milan Design Week, and a chat with <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/utkang/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Utkan Günerkan</a> and <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/derincantu/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Derin Cantürk</a> about Milan and design, are up next in Soli Journal. If you're slowly making your way to Milan, drop us a line.Companion: <a fr-original-style="" href="https://soundcloud.com/user-637448757/high-jazz-290921?si=b161bf6e880a454ab1268ffe9ffc7fb3" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">High Jazz* w/Ill Dubio</a>To Istanbul, to hope, and once again, to spring,Soli

Spring's here! This month, Soli Journal features Milan Design Week, Cappadox, Venice Biennale's comeback, a pre-summer cultural agenda, plus updates from Istanbul to New York.

04.24 Journal: Rising arts and design districts, Istanbul in the last five years

Covering an area of 0,092 square kilometers and home to 1,368 registered inhabitants, this place carries a hint of the rest of Turkey at every street corner, nestled between Lüleci Hendek Street and Kemeraltı Avenue from top to bottom; it neighbors Tomtom, Bereketzade, Kılıç Ali Paşa, Şahkulu, Firuzağa, and Müeyyedzade. This is Beyoğlu's Hacımimi.Hacımimi stands out in Beyoğlu as a neighborhood where both trivial and significant matters intersect, unique in its blend of streets like Lüleci Hendek, Dibek, and Hacı Ali, leading to Kemeraltı Avenue. It's a place where a stroll can reveal snippets about Istanbul or Turkey, visible in its blend of old workshops, design studios, third-generation coffee shops, and traditional eateries, all hinting at deeper stories behind closed doors.April 2024. In Hacımimi, as across the nation, walls that were adorned with muhtar and mayoral candidates' photos and promises until last Sunday, highlight a period when the deeper responsibilities of local governance momentarily fade into the background, prompting reflection on the fundamental role and leadership of the smallest unit of local government. Indeed, what has the muhtar, responsible for the city's neighborhood unit, been doing since residence certificates became available on e-devlet? Why is the&nbsp;muhtar often pictured as an elder overseeing daily life, and why hasn't this image evolved? What overlaps exist between rural and urban community leaders in Turkey, and how connected are city residents to their muhtars, their work, or even their identity?Let's slightly sidestep knowing the muhtar: what does a muhtar do, and what are their duties and responsibilities? In such a vast city today, what local governance needs exist in our neighborhoods, the smallest units we've carved out for ourselves? If we can't talk about the same needs in every neighborhood in a city like Istanbul, who can facilitate communication between the micro and macro? Could that be the muhtar? Can we re-imagine the figure of the muhtar in our minds? This time, differently.This week, we talk with <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/agahuz/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Agah Uz</a>, the newly esnaf (shopkeeper) of Hacımimi, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/dahafazlasimumkun/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">the muhtar&nbsp;candidate</a> for Müeyyedzade, founder of <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/tamamenorganiktost/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Tamamen Organik Tost</a> and <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/nowhappens/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Now Happens</a>, about Hacımimi, its relationship with the neighborhood, the roles shop owners can play in the neighborhood, his candidacy, and the connections between micro and macro scales. Can Hacımimi, a microcosm of Turkey, unite around a shared vision, and should it? What if we saw it as a home rather than a stopover; what could it become? Is any change inherently positive or negative? What does urban rehabilitation entail, and how can we apply a methodical approach to&nbsp;muhtarlık? These are the questions we're exploring.Editor’s note: Muhtar is an elected neighborhood community representative in Türkiye. Muhtarlık refers to the office or role of a muhtar. e-devlet is Türkiye's digital platform for e-government services.Soli

We talk with “Muhtar” Candidate and “esnaf,” founder of Tost and Now Happens, Agah Uz, about Hacımimi, his relationship with the neighborhood, his candidacy, and the connections between micro and macro scales.

#5 Neighborhood: In Hacımimi with Agah Uz

The aroma of Easter bread fresh out of the oven, the buzz of large deli counters, a laundry line strung between windows, a chair haphazardly placed outside a shop, and a tea glass resting on the ledge. In this neighborhood, life seamlessly flows from indoors to outdoors, blurring the lines between homes and storefronts. Kurtuluş is a mosaic of distinct yet harmonious people and shops, living together in a vibrant community. <a fr-original-style="" href="https://link.apos.to/c/qeINNqrPXBwh?c=NOFEB8P-P6LXpJmBcCckD&sub=5ec3aeeea7dd9c2e9941dc10&s=email" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Paul</a>, a journalist who has made this neighborhood his home since 2014, feels a deep connection to Kurtuluş, having moved from the U.S. to immerse himself in Istanbul's rich sense of community. Paul contributes to <a fr-original-style="" href="https://link.apos.to/c/11VEWSarUPJw?c=NOFEB8P-P6LXpJmBcCckD&sub=5ec3aeeea7dd9c2e9941dc10&s=email" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Culinary Backstreets</a>, meticulously documenting local eateries and valuing the stories behind each dish as much as the food itself, embodying the spirit of community engagement. He knows that the adage "buy a neighbor, not a house" truly applies here.Paul's affection for Kurtuluş isn't just about the convenience of having everything within a five-minute walk. It's the warmth of familiar faces on those walks, the feeling of visiting a friend just down the street, and the genuine sense of community in everyday interactions. He explores the establishments he champions, delving into what makes a neighborhood feel like home. Conversations with locals like Ilhan, Mari, and Muhammed, and culinary delights from places like <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/musterek/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Müşterek</a> (and its mezzes) and <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/burcdoner_/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Burç</a> (and its spit-roasted meat) enrich his life in this diverse community.This week, Paul takes us through his Kurtuluş, visiting culinary gems that nourish the neighborhood's body and soul, enhancing its cultural tapestry and enlivening the streets with a sense of camaraderie. We drop by Müşterek's kitchen for a glimpse into their daily prep, meeting Döndü, Lokman, and Günnur. The dolma fillings are being readied. Moving to the adjacent Feriköy, we seek <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/sinemugurdag/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Sinem</a>'s insights on navigating the Feriköy Organic Farmer's Market.To the vibrant hues of Kurtuluş,Soli

We're exploring the community of shopkeepers and locals in Kurtuluş, famous for its dense concentration of mezze shops. Then, we jump to the neighboring Feriköy, with our shopping list at hand, because it's time to hit the market.

#4 Neighborhood: In Kurtuluş with Paul Osterlund

"According to the data from the Directorate General of Migration Management of the Ministry of Interior, as of January 19, 2023, there are 1,335,153 foreigners residing in Turkey with official permission. Regarding the nationalities of those with residence permits in Turkey, Russians top the list, with 154,297 Russian citizens living in Turkey as of January 19, 2023." <a fr-original-style="" href="https://tr.euronews.com/2023/01/28/turkiyede-resmi-izinle-ikamet-eden-yabanci-sayisi-13-milyon-ruslar-ilk-sirada" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">This news piece</a>, released a year ago, delves into the lives of Russians who have made Istanbul their home, illustrated by connecting dots across a graph's x and y axes. Behind each dot on this graph is a person, a life story. Every migration tale offers a glimpse into the political, economic, and socio-cultural climate of the time, filling in the gaps left between the lines. Often, these subtleties are skipped or momentarily paused. Typically, news stories focus on tragedies, triumphs, data, and quotes from those deemed newsworthy, leaving personal stories behind. Yet, these narratives, each with its own distinct character and some common themes of belonging and rights, tell their own stories, standing still in their own right.At the heart of these intersections is <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/emi.istanbul/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">emi</a>, a café (yes, that café) in Cihangir where <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/acmedelavie/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Mary</a> and <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/mchte/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Maya</a>'s paths cross, a testament to a friendship that spans from Moscow to Istanbul. More than just a migration tale, it's a narrative that stretches further back than the distance between Moscow and Istanbul, engaging with the present and looking forward to the future. The setting is Istanbul, Cihangir, where the time has come to build together, to search for a home. In this week's #Neighborhood series, Maya and Mary share their journey with emi and its significance in their lives, while also exploring the potential for rebuilding a sense of community in Istanbul with another local resident.CONTENT:ID:&nbsp;Let's meet: Mary Aleynikova and Maya ReznikovaNEIGHBORHOOD: In this world, you can make any place your home. In Istanbul, it could be here. emi.NOTEBOOK:&nbsp;A day in Cihangir with Mary and MayaShare your news, stories, and neighborhood anecdotes, to stay informed about Soli community events, or just to say hello, write to us at <a fr-original-style="" href="mailto:soli@aposto.com" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">soli@aposto.com</a>Soli

At emi, where Maya and Mary's paths intersect, lies a migration story that stretches further back than the distance between Moscow and Istanbul, converses with the present, and extends into the future.

#3 Neighborhood: In Cihangir with Maya and Mary 

Hello from the very first Saturday of March! Spring is just around the corner, with only 20 days left according to nature's calendar. The days are stretching out, and today, the sun will set at 18:57.We are excited to announce that from now on, Soli Journal will be popping into your inbox on the first week of every month. We'll be covering hidden gems and must-see events from Istanbul and our other favorite cities, bringing you the latest from the worlds of culture, arts, dining, and hospitality. Expect to hear about intriguing happenings in big cities, engaging stories from local businesses, and handy guides to the best spots in various neighborhoods and regions, all curated by Soli.What's on?&nbsp;In this month's lineup for Istanbul, we have <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/sungl_lr/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Sungur</a> and <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/berfinerdogan/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Berfin</a> infusing Beyoğlu with a touch of the Far East for a day, the fourth edition of the Dim Sum series momentarily commandeering Kaptan'ın Yeri in Karaköy, a session on sound healing and meditation with <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.houseofsmarana.com/can-dedeoglu" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Can Dedeoğlu</a> at Arnavutköy House of Smarana, and Magnum Photos' "Exploring Istanbul" photography workshop in Karaköy. Plus, we've got an eclectic mix of events from cities like London, Paris, Athens, and Tokyo that are sure to inspire and delight.What's happening? How can we design cities that never sleep? What new tales is London's iconic Le Caprice planning to weave under its new guise, Arlington? What's the next big spot for Berlin's Hard Wax, the record store fueling the techno surge? What are the factors threatening the future of Soho House, a private member's club that aims to bring together creative minds in cities? Stay tuned for updates on city culture, new openings, and much more.Accompanied by <a fr-original-style="" href="https://open.spotify.com/album/6VinTZHoP04RXMsQk3W4A4?si=AAbGWcEIQjeS5yzatyo_zw" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Kamaal Williams Strings</a>Here's to spring,Soli

Catch us landing in your inbox with Soli Journal every month. We're bringing you news from Istanbul and our favorite cities around the globe—think events, the latest openings, delightful conversations, and curated guides.

03.24 Journal: Night mayors, new openings

At Soli, for over two years now, we've been exploring cities through the lens of personal stories hidden in neighborhoods, carefully archiving each tale. Our encounters have opened new spaces within the community, transforming the narratives we chase and share into both unique local records and topics of universal conversation. Sometimes, the stories we tell, the dreams we weave, the thoughts we ponder, and the emotions we feel have overflowed from the depths of our minds onto the streets. Now, we're moving from the digital format to the limitless world of print, within a limited space, expressing ourselves through words and photographs. In 2024, Soli will continue to inspire as a printed magazine, delving into the dynamics of human-neighborhood connections, chronicling present-day urban life, and fostering communal gatherings.What goes on behind the scenes of a magazine? What do editors, writers, designers, photographers, and reporters engage in? Who are their conversations with? Which artists, books, and cities get involved in the process? We're translating the subtleties of our experiences into the pages of our magazine. Our goal is to create new encounters and document the journey of collaboration. In our #Community Newsletters, we engage in conversations with "familiar faces" we find inspiring and want to get to know better, sparking new ideas and dreams. The stories we uncover during our magazine research are preserved in our #Neighborhood Newsletters. One such story features in this week’s opening issue of the new season.In Athens' Psirri&nbsp;neighborhood, we find ourselves at <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/mona_athens/?hl=en" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Mona</a>, a place you're likely to recognize. We sit down with <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/eftihia/?hl=en" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Eftihia Stefanidi</a>, co-founder and creative director of the hotel, at one of Mona's long tables. Our conversation revolves around how a hotel can enrich the city’s creative pulse and become a converging point for locals, tourists, and "outsiders", evolving into a cultural emblem of the city. We meander through Psirri, following Eftihia’s lead.Here's to years filled with adventures, dreams, and meaningful encounters, to 2024. By the way, share your news, stories, and anecdotes with us, stay informed about SOLİ community events, or simply drop us a hello at <a fr-original-style="" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_new">soli@aposto.com</a>.Yamas!Soli

In the first issue of the year, there's nothing quite like stepping into new beginnings. And naturally, it's the perfect time to share exciting news.

#1 Neighborhood Newsletter: In Psirri with Eftihia Stefanidi

In this inaugural issue of SOLİ Community Newsletter, we embark on a journey to explore the essence of neighborhoods and the vibrant tapestry they weave into our lives. It's a celebration of the local, the independent, and the stories that make each corner of cities unique. This edition introduces Kyra Santiago and Jason Ford, the inspiring pair behind Little Places,&nbsp;a platform designed to uncover and highlight unique, independent spots and brands across London neighborhoods. From the bustling streets of London to the serene pathways of Victoria Park, Kyra and Jason reveal their intimate connection with Bow and their mission to champion independent businesses. Their story is a testament to the power of community, resilience, and creativity. As we navigate through their experiences and insights, we're reminded of the beauty in the ordinary and the extraordinary discoveries within our own neighborhoods.<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.nts.live/shows/all-fruits-ripe/episodes/all-fruits-ripe-4th-december-2023" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Accompanied by All Fruits Ripe</a>SOLİ

The independent supporting the independent. Meet Kyra & Jason, the dynamic duo behind Little Places London. 

#1 Community Newsletter: Little Places 

Seyahat

Kültür hakkında yayımlanan makaleler ve yayınlar

Kültür

This journey transcends the nostalgic sighs for “the old Beyoğlu” and instead, draws attention to the city's “memory loss.”

In Beyoğlu: A traveler, four shopkeepers, two researchers, in pursuit of the collective memory

My name's <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/yalcoryalc/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Ali</a>, everyone just calls me "Ali." Short and sweet.Right now, I'm working as a chef, but if I wasn't doing this, I'd love to try my hand at being a musician.My friends say I'm great with DIY tools, but I think my true talent is making handwritten notes and labels.When I meet someone new, I always end up telling them about this unforgettable meal, how I really miss Istanbul but also how much I love living in London.I live in Notting Hill and work in Shoreditch, but my heart belongs to İstanbul, where the Bosphorus never ceases to amaze me.To me, a neighborhood becomes a community through its residents, shopkeepers, cats, dogs, plants, and of course, the collective energy they all create.In my neighborhood, I'm the go-to person for DIY and kitchen tools.In my view, a tourist is someone driven by the desire to explore and seek. A foreigner is someone unfamiliar with local customs and traditions. Being a local means somehow becoming a part of the furniture.I’m a tourist in Japan, a local in Notting Hill and Akatlar, and a foreigner in Africa. Exploring the cuisine in Japan would be my main focus, so I could do without a local guide. In Notting Hill or Akatlar, Google Maps would become obsolete for me. However, in Africa, having a local guide would be crucial.

Let's meet Ali, one half of Dükkan. He's the go-to person for DIY and kitchen tools. Lives and works between Shoreditch and Notting Hill.

Ali Yalçın

I'm <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/yilmazmustafa/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Mustafa</a>, but friends call me Mus.If I hadn’t become a chef, I'd have liked to be a footballer.People around me say cooking is my biggest talent, but if you ask me, it’s cleaning.When I meet someone, I often find myself sharing about how I always order the second cheapest wine on the menu.I live in Camden and work in Shoreditch. My heart belongs to İzmir, where I can be my inner child.For me, the neighborhood ia all about childhood; it's that place where I feel at home, surrounded by friendly and familiar faces.In the neighborhood, I'm the go-to person for a good old barbecue.To me, a tourist means an explorer and a local means someone settled.Only true tourists know: Leicester Square is London’s biggest tourist trap.And only real Londoners recognize the sounds of two foxes fighting.

The other half of Dükkan, Mustafa, or just Mus for short. For him, the neighborhood means childhood and familiar faces. To find him in the neighborhood, just follow the smell of barbecue.

Mustafa Yılmaz

Those who set up the tables we've missed, turning distant homes into their own "dükkans" with shared longings and the universal language of food. Ali and Mustafa's Dükkan in London tells a tale of migration, cuisine, and community.

A "Dükkan" in Shoreditch

<h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Let's meet</h2>I'm <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/utkang/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Utkan</a>, though my inner circle prefers "Utki".I'm working an interior designer. Had I not ventured into this field, psychology would have been my calling.According to my friends, my greatest talent lies in design, but in my opinion, it's communication. To me, without the art of communication no talent can truly shine.When meeting someone new, the first thing I usually want to share is how fortunate I feel.I live in Milan but my heart belongs to Istanbul.The term neighborhood to me conveys a sense of tranquility outside my home, a place I can visualize in its entirety with my eyes shut.I feel connected to a neighborhood when familiar faces greet me day in and day out.Outside Europe, I feel like a tourist, but in Istanbul, I feel like a local. I've never felt as outsider anywhere because adapting to your surroundings and feeling like you belong is a universal journey.I'm a local in Istanbul, a tourist outside Europe, but never an outsider anywhere. It's about finding that familiar rhythm in the unknown.<h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">What's up?</h2>Lately, I've been engrossed in architectural materials. Staying abreast of the latest innovations and uncovering the potentials of various materials truly invigorates me.With spring in the air, I find myself tuning into <a fr-original-style="" href="http://poolsuite.fm/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">poolsuite.fm</a> more often than not.Looking ahead, Milan Design Week and the 60th Venice Biennale are marked on my calendar.

Meet Utkan, or "Utki" as friends call him; a dynamic interior designer and a communicator at heart. A tourist outside Europe, a local in Istanbul, yet he's never felt like an outsider anywhere.

Utkan Günerkan

Soli: How does Milan's design language interact with the city's historical and contemporary urban landscapes?Utkan: If we consider cities as organisms, it wouldn't be wrong to say that each city reflects its inner world through its design language. Unlike its Italian counterparts, Milan doesn't flaunt its urban beauty; it invites the curious to discover it layer by layer, in a more esoteric manner.&nbsp;The city's industrial structure and its role in financially uplifting the country pave the way for Milan to transform into a veritable exhibition space. Looking at structures like the Duomo di Milano, Torre Velasca, Pirelli Tower, and Bosco Verticale from a chronological perspective, we can see urban landscapes as a reflection of hope for the future. The intermingling of all these historical layers creates a city identity that requires repeated reading.S: In this context, how do you read the city's stories and uncover its layers?U: The layered structure and human scale of Milan allow for exploration on foot from one point to another. This makes it possible to physically or mentally feel the unique spirit, or genius loci, of each neighborhood as you move from one to another. The most enjoyable route I've observed this change on starts from Cinque Vie, extending all the way to the end of Corso Garibaldi and Corso Como.S: What could the support and increase of design-centric areas like Brera mean for the transformation of these neighborhoods and for designers in the city?U: In Milan, there are a few neighborhoods and streets that serve as symbols of social status for designers, with Brera being one of them, historically synonymous with design. However, the demographic that can afford to live there today is socio-economically privileged, which also coincides with the potential target clientele for designers. Their higher purchasing power increases the likelihood of designers being able to make sales in these neighborhoods. On the other hand, the proliferation of relatively more affordable yet still designer-favored areas like Nolo Milano and Isola helps designers stay within the city limits. However, as these neighborhoods become popular and rents rise, it could lead to a domino effect making the entire city unaffordable. While I'm happy about the increase and support of these areas, I believe a more organic development process would be more beneficial for the city.S: Milan Design Week is approaching. This year's Fuorisalone theme is "Materia Natura," focusing on sustainability in design and creative processes. How do you interpret the scope of the design week in this light?U: Even though Fuorisalone's theme is sustainability, I believe that the design week is largely dominated by large-scale commercial firms, and unfortunately, the theme often remains just a headline. Therefore, I try to follow independent designers as an alternative.S: Which independent designers and programs are you planning to follow during Milan Design Week?U: For now, the "Design Variations" new edition is at the top of my list of programs to see. This year, "Design Variations" will be held in a garage with brutalist architecture from the 1940s, facing the southwest side of Darsena. The building, designed by Marco Zanuso, will open its doors to visitors for the first time for this occasion. Moscapartners will curate the exhibited designs. Another event is Alcova, which has been bringing together creative minds and designers shaping the design world for seven years, taking place in two significant structures within the Milan metropolitan area: Villa Borsani, designed by Osvaldo Borsani, and Villa Bagatti Valsecchi, one of the 19th century's most important examples of Lombard architecture. Another project is AQUA by studiopepe, organized in collaboration with Archiproducts. Generally, selections by platforms like Elle Décor and Say Hi to Atlas are also on my list every year.S: How do Milan Design Week and other international events contribute to designers in Milan, the city's residents, and the exhibition culture?U: I think Milan Design Week is highly beneficial for design communities, especially as an international platform. It fosters interest and attention on pure design beyond commercial concerns, offering designers the opportunity for recognition and networking with other designers. Many people, deeply involved in design and connected to the industry, can get their yearly dose of inspiration by attending just this fair for six days. It shows hopeful visions of the future to those who can see.For Milan residents, the biggest change is the city turning into a treasure trove to explore, especially during the Fuorisalone period. Beyond the exhibitions, every building or palazzo courtyard is open for visits, offering a glimpse into Milan's most private living spaces and the dynamics within these structures. There's always an ongoing art and production vibe in the city. With design weeks and similar events, especially after Expo 2015, we see the opening of art galleries throughout the city and the proliferation of pop-up exhibitions. People might just find themselves wandering into an art exhibit on their commute back from the office. Imagine your local pizza spot doubling as a pop-up gallery and eatery for an evening; that's the kind of vibrant exhibition scene there is in the city.

We delve into Milan's human-scaled neighborhoods with Utkan, discussing the city's design culture and more during the design week.

A snapshot into Milan's urban landscape and its design culture

<h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Let's meet</h2>My friends call me "<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/derincantu/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Dero.</a>"I'm currently serving as an architectural consultant in the Milan showroom of an Italy-based furniture brand. Had I not taken this path, I would have loved to dive into eyewear design.People who are closest to me think I have a knack for elevating spaces with subtle touches. But I think my real talent lies in being keenly observant, endlessly curious, and having a knack for analysis.When I strike up a conversation with someone new, I often find myself eager to share stories from my travels or day-to-day adventures. I'm a firm believer that swapping tales about our experiences can nourish the soul.I've made my home in Porta Venezia, Milan, but my heart belongs to a city that could only be described as a blend of Lisbon and Istanbul. Imagine that!For me, the essence of a neighborhood is being able to soak in quality time just a short stroll from your doorstep, say about 10-15 minutes, without feeling out of your element or sacrificing that cozy sense of belonging.I feel a sense of belonging in a neighborhood when it's filled with historic vibes, warm places, and friendly faces.While traveling, I see myself as a curious and mindful tourist. In Milan and Istanbul, I'm very much a local, but outside Europe and Turkey, I find myself feeling like an outsider.

A.k.a. "Dero," the architectural consultant from Porta Venezia, with a heart split between Lisbon and Istanbul.

Derin Cantürk

Local: Derin CantürkI made my move to Porta Venezia back in 2013 when I came over from Istanbul for my architecture degree. After a brief hiatus in 2016, I found myself drawn back to this neighborhood from another corner of the city in 2017. Porta Venezia, translating to "Venice Gate" in Italian, takes its name from a historic gate at the heart of the neighborhood. For me, the real pulse of Porta Venezia beats around the crossroads of Via Melzo and Via Malpighi, where many of my favorite spots cluster.Buildings from the early 1900s like Casa Galimberti, Casa Guazzoni, Casa Cambiaghi, and Casa Balzarini, all flaunting the Liberty or Italian Art Nouveau style, never fail to captivate me. The grand entrance halls of Milan's apartment blocks, hidden behind majestic doors, remain among the architectural elements that catch my eye in daily life, continuously offering surprises.As for the neighborhood vibe... It's a vibrant mix, hosting diverse communities. The busier, commercial northern part is home to African communities, predominantly Eritreans, and LGBTQIA+ communities, while the quieter, residential south is where you'll find Italians and expats like myself. Although these groups lead fairly separate lives, they come together in the evenings, especially around Via Lecco, connecting through shared spaces and bars for some fun. Their most common ground seems to be the commercial and social interactions fostered by local businesses and shops.The impact of local venues and markets on the neighborhood's economy, culture, social fabric, and sense of community is significant. Several days a week, local markets spring up on different streets, transforming them into public platforms where especially the elderly can socialize and buy fresh produce, with the streets closed to traffic on market days. Like anywhere in Italy, catching up with the barista over a coffee at the bar counter in the mornings and after lunch is a staple routine. The pre-dinner aperitivo hour is also an integral part of life in the city and the neighborhood.Green spaces and parks play a crucial role in the daily lives of residents with pets and children. The Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli, also known as the Porta Venezia Gardens, is Milan's first and second-largest city park, serving as a vital green escape for me and others living here.It's not just a local observation, but I'd say Milan's venues traditionally had a weak connection to the street. However, in recent years, especially with the pandemic's impact and subsequent new city regulations, we've seen many venues extending outwards. This shift has undoubtedly strengthened their connection with the external.For the curious: Take a stroll through Milan's entryways with Karl Kolbitz's "<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.taschen.com/en/books/architecture-design/05321/entryways-of-milan-ingressi-di-milano" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Entryways of Milan</a>", published by Taschen.

We're tuning into the beat of the Milan we know and the Milan we rediscover with every visit, all from the perspective of a local.

Green, open, diverse: Notes from Porta Venezia

From Istanbul to London, Milan, and beyond the Venetian vistas; notes from our journey stretching from April into May.

What's on this month?

New York's Vision Zero plan, new museums in Istanbul and Ayvalık, the long-awaited metro network in Thessaloniki, the art scene in the city and London, openings, and more.