Aposto Magazine
WRITER

Canberk Çolak

A dietitian more interested in the stories behind recipes than in the recipes themselves. He always wants to know why something is made the way it is, and where it comes from. He can’t help himself, so he looks into it. He backs it up with scientific evidence. And as if that weren’t enough, he writes about it and shares it. Gastrosophy through and through.

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FOOD AND DRINK

The ortolan ritual: why did diners hide their faces?

Eaten bones, organs and all, the ortolan is one of the most controversial dishes in French gastronomy. Its story, which stretches from Dumas’s culinary dictionary to “Succession”, raises the question of the suffering inflicted on animals for a single mouthful of pleasure, while the napkin traditionally draped over the head when eating ortolans prompts another question: why do we hide when we eat?

Canberk Çolak · Aposto Magazine

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Notes, discoveries and reviews on taste, craft and ritual.