Conjointly inhabited, isolated area where buildings are stationed in a row, side to side and in an adjacent order; where recesses opened to concrete gardens; oxygen per cubic meter is reduced from the first hours of the morning until noon; the first objects to be seen on the pavements are respectively a car tire, a ripped trash bag, a left shoe, an old cable, the remote control thrown away because it is incapable of switching channels, a dead battery. The ambulance siren and crowd cacophony are fixed noises in the backdrop. This is a pessimistic reading of the metropolis.But what if we defined cities by steps walked instead of kilometers, square meters, and parcels traversed? Would we come across the fig tree, one hundred and twenty-two steps away from the doorstep? What if, forty-eight steps later, we bumped into aunty Süreyya who would give us her recipe for a stew, dessert or jam depending on the variety? In two hundred and fifty steps, on the street named after some doctor, could the smell of salt water mixed with the pine, make us forget the day ahead filled up with to-do lists?&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/0/5/1673630845416.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Moda streets</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Seventy-seven steps south onto the doctor-something street, glances are turning towards a wicker basket hanging from the building with Mr Somebody’s name carved in front, like most of buildings in Istanbul are named after. The starting point of the rope fastened with sailor knots is unknown. Next to the 100 Turkish liras there is a note that says 2 lemons, 1 box of spaghetti, and 6 medium-sized tomatoes. The note is written on a piece of paper torn from a striped notebook. At this moment, the pillar of the neighborhood, Mr.-somebody, leaves the grocery store also known as the market/ the buffet/the tobacco shop open 20 hours a day. The supplies are placed scatteredly in the basket. He pulls several times from the rope, dinner ascends to the sky. Three hundred and forty-one, two hundred seventy-seven, no, seventy-nine steps later, you are facing the sunset, intuitively.For four hundred steps, while the smell of onions, garlic, and tomato paste diffuse from the kitchen and the sound of series, news, documentary, and marriage programs coming from TV’s on the ground floors blend; the night is no more the harbinger of the sun going down, but of the full moon, the street lights, the life behind the curtains, and the pantone of an altered light source. Now, the city is neither the abode of those who start the night as a hot mess nor those who start the morning in haste. The night is lustrous.Follow us,Hazal

<h1 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">All blue:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3FS4WCf?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Mavi</a></h1> Mavi is proud to make it to&nbsp;CDP’s (Carbon Disclosure Project) Global A List&nbsp;in the Climate Change category, where only 283 companies are included among 20000 candidates.The first and only ready-made garment company from Turkey on the list, Mavi&nbsp;is developing its eco-friendly All Blue&nbsp;strategy in order to fulfill its goals of designing its full denim range out of All Blue materials by 2030 and becoming a climate-positive company by 2050.You can visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3GedXG1?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here</a> to find out more about Mavi’s All Blue strategy.

25 Aralık - Mavi - İstanbul EN 

LOCAL:&nbsp;“My friends call me Edi. If I didn't do that, I would like to be a goatherd.”&nbsp;Who is Edi? What is he doing now? Where can we find him in the neighborhood past midnight?NEIGHBORHOOD BY NEIGHBORHOOD: “People who live here are those who can be satisfied with their environment and their immediate surroundings, so they don't need to define themselves by their work or their achievements.” Burak explains the reasons for establishing his life in Moda.THE ROUTE: “When it gets dark in Moda.” Our destination for dinner was Aida Restaurant. Then we met at the Fahri Konsolos because it was time to liven up. Souljazz Orchestra - Kapital was playing in the background.

<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">My friends call me Edi.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Currently I'm a bartender, and if I didn't do that I would like to be a goatherd.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">According to my friends, my specialty (even though I hate this word) is mixology. It is akin to reinventing the elements if you ask me.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I live in Moda in Istanbul, but in my heart, I am an&nbsp;Amazonian.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">When a dog follows me for a while, I feel like I'm in my neighborhood.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">My favorite place to walk at night is Yoğurtçu Park. Because the trees in the park are suitable for climbing. I don't always climb, but it feels good to be surrounded by nature.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Only a real Caferağa local with hearty eating habits would know: <a fr-original-style="" href="https://goo.gl/maps/bpojvkB1qQo2iSMG6?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Registon Uzbek Restaurant</a>. <a fr-original-style="" href="https://images.app.goo.gl/NUk4i9AF6AGHjAf47?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Samsa börek </a>and <a fr-original-style="" href="https://images.app.goo.gl/GmwoSxu1QE7NZTMm8?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Legman</a> as the first order.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">After midnight, you can probably find me at the Mehmet Ayvalıtaş Square, (Moda Havuz as the locals call it) with my friends.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">The songs I'm listening to at night right now are on <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/@TheGloaming?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">The Gloaming</a> album.</li></ul>

We're moving before we start tagging after Burak in Caferağa. Or should we say Edi? 

Neighborhood: Caferağa Local: Burak Ayaz

LOCAL

With the tote bag hanging around Burak's neck, the scissors from the junk shop, which are as sharp as brand new ones, and the scent of pine mixed with linden, we tag after Burak, on a tour of the hood. After tasting the cedar leaf, we will go to the shore, drink a glass of turşu juice and then steer into Fahri Konsolos.


In Caferağa: From sunset to the darkness of the night 

NEIGHBORHOOD BY NEIGHBORHOOD

TODAY'S SPONSOR

I think the consumption dose of nightlife in Caferağa is less than the other (European) side. By consumption, I mean the number of people taking part. Dancing venues are limited, the spaces for conversation are varied and wide, and the dialogue that ensues is more than just a way of expressing oneself. Neighborhood nights are anticipatable, but that doesn't mean that they don't surprise you; you may encounter different modes of a person you know. The sense of security offered by the neighborhood has as much to do with this as the fact that alcohol can reveal things like litmus paper. It’s the night, it’s sincere. With someone you chat with during the day, the topics remain within a framework, but at night there are no boundaries.&nbsp;<h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">We're going out one night in the neighborhood. It's a Friday.</h2><img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/5/1673628534006.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.65" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">We are on the neighborhood tour</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">It’s 4:00 p.m.The starting point is <a fr-original-style="" href="https://goo.gl/maps/b9GeGjmMmpzoQfUu7?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Moda shore</a>. Because a good day starts with a walk.The first order is in <a fr-original-style="" href="https://goo.gl/maps/6nHfTa1Jq59beQ7G7?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Naga Putrika</a>: Breakfast and tea. Simple things.Coffee at Tribu Caffe is the point of conversation on the go because it's Moda's local.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/5/1673628470531.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">What we saw in the neighborhood on the way from Aida Restaurant to the Fahri Konsolos</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">7:00 p.m.Our destination for dinner is <a fr-original-style="" href="https://goo.gl/maps/SgaxZ3jooDJaFwRr6?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Aida Restaurant</a>. The intimate design here is the coaster for a good night out.As I was leaving Aida and heading to the shop, I saw Bilge Han, who had painted the pictures and made the medicine cabinet in Fahri, and we talked about our project to make a new wooden cabinet.10:00 p.m.A little later, we met at the Fahri Konsolos, me behind the bar, you in front of it, because it is time to have fun. <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oprWZttVhCE&utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Souljazz Orchestra - Kapital</a> is playing in the background.The next stop is <a fr-original-style="" href="https://goo.gl/maps/pbHs3ZXZ3XCNZq139?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Arkaoda</a>.&nbsp;It's time to dance.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/5/1673628323772.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Good things happen in this neighborhood after 2:00 a.m.</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">3:00 a.m.Everywhere is closed, leaving only <a fr-original-style="" href="https://goo.gl/maps/xWG8MCeoCqaU2FMSA?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Kimyon</a> for a snack, unfortunately. Because it gives me nightmares every time as if there is something esoteric about their food.I'm on my way home now, through <a fr-original-style="" href="https://goo.gl/maps/8xRF9HfCV8TwDBGx5?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Şifa Street</a>. Because I never get tired of seeing that gigantic cactus.I get the notification before I close my eyes: Are you asleep? If I reply, I'm on my way to a house with a broken doorbell, to a house party.

We are in the neighborhood, we are outside, it is a Friday sunset with cocktails, where we decide that the day will lap over the next one.

When it gets dark 

ROUTE

<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/5/1673628174399.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">The end of the night and the beginning of the day at Moda</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">This week we went to Moda, right next to Burak. We walked the sidewalks by chewing the leaves of the cedar tree, we learned, saw and lived that some of the trees we saw came from London during the Ottoman period, that the day set in at least 3 colors in the neighborhood and that the night brought a thousand and one memories.Next week, we will be walking uphill with filter coffee in our hands, in Gayrettepe, which is stuck in between the workplaces and continues its life with the old traditions we miss. Who is showing the way? We are sitting in Petra waiting for you, when you arrive we will start the tour.

POSTCARD

Istanbul based urban culture magazine documenting cities through their neighborhoods and communities. 