Early morning. The most crucial time of the day. Tarpaulins, heavy iron sticks and the ropes that bind them are the tools needed to construct the roof of one of the oldest gathering places in human history in the narrow streets of the neighborhood, which are occupied with different purposes for the remaining six days of the week. These are the fixed elements of this nomadic structure. Then there is the labor, bargaining, land, crops and realities that fill it. The physical space it occupies, one or several streets of the neighborhood and the height up to the tarpaulins. And it will take some time to calculate the area it occupies in the city. For sure.&nbsp;The distance from the clean Black Sea coast to Tarlabaşı and the space covered by the plastic crates of&nbsp;ispit transported along this distance; the weight of Larissa's cookie recipes, who knows how old the recipe is, which she carried from Ukraine to Kurdela Street; and the length of the list of products she put on sale that day, written in Cyrillic; the distance that the anchovies, horse mackerel and chinook that fisherman Murat put on the counter traveled on time at sea and then on land despite all the hunters; the weight of Ezine cheese that Ömer brought from Çanakkale and the time it took until the best Ezine recipe was found; the waiting time for a mixed gözleme with spinach, cheese and potatoes; the number of walnuts cracked to be tasted by the customers; all the similarities between two neighboring neighborhoods and the centuries it took for them to accept each other.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/0/2/1674571239324.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.51" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Permanent and temporary in Kasımpaşa İnebolu Pazarı</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Can all this give a measure of the area covered by a neighborhood market, pazar? Can the temporary market, where the village and the city, the seller and the buyer, the buying and the giving, the exchange of economic, social and cultural layers take place, be the most concrete resister or supporter of a neighborhood's gentrification movement? If we were to redefine the marketplace today, would it be enough to call it the place where we meet all together in between realities of the neighborhood?&nbsp;Yes. At least today. The acrid and sour smell of olive oil, the taste of bitter black tea, the pink of plastic bags the color of ispit root; the waves of inward, outward and inward migration of the 1960s and 2010s, the transition from 19th-century housing to gentrified 21st-century residences is the memory of walking along Dolapdere in and between Kasımpaşa İnebolu and Tarlabaşı markets. Last Sunday we met Italo (Rondinella) and Kornelia (Binicewicz) in Kasımpaşa İnebolu Pazarı, on Turşucu Bayram Street. Chestnut mushrooms and baby spinach in a pink plastic bag. We ordered four ince belli&nbsp;cups of tea. Then we headed towards Tarlabaşı.&nbsp;Tag along,Elif

LOCAL I: Kornelia is a DJ, music researcher and food explorer. She says that if she hadn't done these things, she would have wanted to be a chef. With an expat song in our ears, we follow in Kornelia's footsteps.ROUTE: "Markets display the reality of the neighborhood in the goods lined up on the vendors' stalls, in the price scales, in the words they use to attract shoppers, in the aesthetics of the stalls and the music they listen to in the background." Kornelia describes the markets as the place where the anecdotes never end. Bag in hand, eyes on the stall on the right, Kornelia and Italo by our side, we start the tour.LOCAL II: We find Italo by the sea. We have some questions about tomatoes and Bolognese sauce and of course asking for some tips about photography.&nbsp;PHOTOBOOK:&nbsp;Italo selected 12 photographs from the Istanbul section of the book named Pazar // Shuk&nbsp;that he produced with Kornelia. The photos he has chosen reflect the reality of the markets and tell their daily stories. So we couldn't return home without following him from stand to stand and listening to what he had to say.

<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">My nickname is Kora, but only a few people call me that.&nbsp;</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Currently, I’m working as a DJ, music researcher and food explorer. If I wasn’t doing that I could have been a chef.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">According to my friends, I’m a master of hummus.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I live in Burgazada, but I’m from Kraków in my heart because this is where it all started.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">If I am not at home, you can find me in&nbsp;the forest, on the top of the mountain, in a local pazar or&nbsp;in a record store.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">When I come across a bakery with sourdough bread in a neighborhood, I feel I belong there.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">After living for years in Istanbul, I have recently discovered: Zeytinburnu Medicinal Plant Garden.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I have recently found inspiration in the people and the street art of Quartieri Spagnoli in Naples.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I complain the most about inflation and the costs of eski kaşar.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I can never find it in Istanbul:&nbsp;a white cheese for pierogi, Polish ravioli.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">The sound of Istanbul’s markets in the morning: A smooth and easy vibe with conversations between sellers about daily things, setting up the tents, sails and stands. And the evening: the vibe is high and vibrant with loud shouting and singing of sellers encouraging you to buy everything they have in akşam pazarı mode.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">When I'm walking around a market, the first thing I'm looking for is seasonal fruits and vegetables.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">The trademark of an Istanbul market is a unique structure of poles&nbsp;and&nbsp;ropes stretched between historical buildings of the old neighborhoods.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I return from the market with&nbsp;fresh greens for&nbsp;pesto and other green sauces.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Only a real music hunter would know that you should never throw a record.&nbsp;You never know when it will become a treasure.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">My favorite gurbet song is <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFSmPAMV_Xw&utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Gurbet</a>&nbsp;by Semra Sine.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Here is my current playlist: soundtrack from&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://open.spotify.com/playlist/54S54hrcQE9uL7hfbbicFl?si=52fc46dc32cd4c39&utm_source=aposto" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Glitter TV Series</a>.</li></ul>

We are together with Kornelia Binicewicz. 

KORNELIA BINICEWICZ

LOCAL I

Pazar-hopping. Fresh produce from farms, affordable clothes and lots of stories. Market bags in hand, eyes on the stall on the right, Kornelia and Italo by our side. Let's start the tour. 

The showcase of neighborhoods

ROUTE

<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Italo is my name and my nickname too.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Currently, I’m working as a photographer and journalist, if I wasn’t doing that I could have been a footballer.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">According to my friends, I’m a master of&nbsp;tomato sauce, Bolognese sauce, and any sauce.&nbsp;</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I live in Istanbul but I’m from Bologna in my heart because although I don’t live there I visit frequently.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">If not at home, you can find me at the seaside.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">When I come across&nbsp;a good pizzeria in a neighborhood, I feel I belong there.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">After living decades in Istanbul, I have discovered that also here, in Beyoğlu Balık Pazarı,&nbsp;I can find a delicious bottarga with which I prepare one of my best spaghetti recipes. </li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I have recently found inspiration in making bread.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I complain the most about referees in Italian football.&nbsp;</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I can never find&nbsp;fresh green celery in Istanbul (or, at least, rarely).</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">I do not return from the market without good tomatoes (if it is the right season) and beyaz peynir.&nbsp;</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">When I need to fix my camera, I go to&nbsp;Sirkeci.</li><li dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Only a real Istanbulite photographer would know that owning a tear gas mask is a good idea.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">My favorite market to take photos in Istanbul is probably Samatya Pazarı, but I love all of them.</li></ul>

We are together with Italo Rondinella. 

ITALO RONDINELLA 

LOCAL II

Unsaturated: Food marketsPhotos:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/italo_rondinella/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Italo Rondinella</a><a data-remove-tab-index="true" data-sk="tooltip_parent" data-stringify-link="https://link.apos.to/c/L1I4mVOhpRnM?c=Plxdo4uala8hCC6ig90p-&sub=61694664f4ef01000689ac68&s=web&utm_source=aposto" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.apos.to/c/L1I4mVOhpRnM?c=Plxdo4uala8hCC6ig90p-&sub=61694664f4ef01000689ac68&s=web" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" tabindex="-1" target="_blank">Pazar//Shuk</a>, the book prepared by Kornelia Binicewicz and Italo Rondinella, with the contribution of Elazar Zinvel the former Cultural Attache of Israel in Istanbul and Ipek and Zeynep Ozbay from Paper Street Co. contains a collection of stories, essays, and street photography spiced with a solid dose of recipes coming straight from the local markets. It brings together the two cities and their people, presenting the universe of pazar and shuk with brilliant snapshots of culture and local history carrying the very essence of life itself in Istanbul and Tel Aviv.Italo selected 12 photographs from the Istanbul section of the book&nbsp;that he produced with Kornelia. The photos he has chosen reflect the reality of the markets and tell their daily stories.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727736839.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Musa Dağdeviren, Çiya Restaurant owner, in his Sunday morning shopping at the Kasımpaşa İnebolu Pazarı.</h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727771584.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">One of the stands of Kasımpaşa İnebolu Pazarı.</h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727796239.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Hilmi Yıldız owns a fish shop and a fish restaurant in one of the main squares of Samatya, a neighborhood in Fatih district on the European side of Istanbul.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727825701.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">A hamal (porter) at Samatya Saturday market.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727852275.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Menemenci Hamido is located in one of the small streets entwining the Istanbul Grand Bazaar, just next to the Yeni Polonya Pazarı. His menemen is one of the best in town.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727897484.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Watching the football match at Tarlabaşı Sunday market.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727931161.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">The cheese seller Ömer Gülcin is ordering tea to the Tarlabaşı Pazarı çaycı.</h4><h4 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727960876.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Tarlabaşı Pazarı takes place every Sunday and it is the main weekly market of Beyoğlu on the European side of Istanbul.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674727986100.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">The Kadıköy Pazarı structure was designed by the architect Hakan Kıran.</h4><h4 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674728032633.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">A bread seller at Kadıköy Pazarı. The market happens twice a week, on Tuesdays and Fridays, and it is one of the biggest in Istanbul.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674728065379.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Gözleme is standard fare at any pazar in Istanbul and Turkey. Here one of the gözlemeci teyzeler at Kadıköy Pazarı.</h4><h4 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/4/1674728113661.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h4><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Fruit and clothes stands at Kadıköy Pazarı.</h4>

A pazar tour with Kornelia and Italo. 

Pazar//Shuk

PHOTOBOOK

<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/2/1674576679020.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Find the best pumpkin in the market by following the neighborhood cat</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">This week we were in the market with Kornelia and Italo, looking for green celery, chatting with those who said "booouyr!" to their stalls and looking for parsley that hadn't yet soaked for tonight's salad.&nbsp;Next week we will greet you from London to meet once again the usual suspects of the neigbourhoods and salute the newcomersUntil then, follow us: <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/soli.community/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">@soli.community</a>

POSTCARD

Istanbul based urban culture magazine documenting cities through their neighborhoods and communities. 

Seyahat

Kültür hakkında yayımlanan makaleler ve yayınlar