Between September 17 and November 20, we stroll around <a fr-original-style="" href="https://apos.to/i/soli-is-at-17th-istanbul-biennial-balat" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Balat</a>, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://apos.to/i/soli-is-at-17th-istanbul-biennial-cemberlitas" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Çemberlitaş</a>, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://apos.to/i/soli-is-at-17th-istanbul-biennial-siraselviler" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Sıraselviler</a>, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://apos.to/i/soli-is-at-17th-istanbul-biennial-tophane" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Tophane</a>, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://apos.to/i/soli-is-at-17th-istanbul-biennial-yeldegirmeni" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Yeldeğirmeni</a>, and <a fr-original-style="" href="https://apos.to/i/soli-is-at-17th-istanbul-biennial-zeytinburnu" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Zeytinburnu</a> for the <a fr-original-style="" href="https://bienal.iksv.org/en" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">17th Istanbul Biennial</a>. This year’s biennial takes its inspiration from compost, a natural fertilisation method in which many different organic wastes are brought together and decomposed. We stroll around these neighbourhoods one more time, but this time for the 17th Istanbul Biennial, we enter streets we frequent less and peek through the doors of the buildings whose names we have just heard of. This time, we let our eyes roam over the city we are native to, like travellers. When our feet get tired, but not our minds, we catch our breath in a café where locals sit. It is the curiosity that makes our feet stand back up again. We feel homely and then unhomely again. We swing around the authentic and the cliché, the old and the new, the traditional and the modern, the nostalgic and the futuristic, between the black and the white of the six neighbourhoods where the 17th Istanbul Biennial is spread. ‘Can the streets be audible and/or silent narrators of the neighbourhood at the same time?’. This question is on our minds as we traverse the streets again and again. We continue on our route through artisan and artist workshops, streets, parks, restaurants, shops, and cultural centres to better understand and read the neighbourhoods and become a participant in their everyday culture.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/0/1662890929687.jpeg" width="550" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.80" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">The window opening to Çemberlitaş view&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Today, we are welcomed by Barın Han in Çemberlitaş, which was the calligraphy and bookbinding studio of artist Emin Barın for many years. Then we will pass by &nbsp;Gedikpaşa Armenian Protestant Church (Gedikpaşa Ermeni İncili Kilisesi), take a short break at Bena Ice Cream Shop, and walk through Kürkçüler Pazarı Street.Follow us,Soli team

<h1 fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3Dzet0f?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Koç Holding</a>&nbsp;welcomes art enthusiasts to the 17th Istanbul Biennial</h1> Organised by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (IKSV) since 1987 and sponsored by Koç Holding since 2007, the 17th edition of the&nbsp;Istanbul Biennial has opened its doors to the public eye.The Biennial, which will be open to public visit until 20 November, is prepared with a different approach in this edition due to the pandemic precautions as well as its one-year delay.The 17th Istanbul Biennial meets its viewers in various <a fr-original-style="" href="https://bienal.iksv.org/tr/17-istanbul-bienali/mekanlar?utm_source=aposto" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">spots</a> of the city such as bookstores, hospitals, nursing homes, cafes, metro stations, and Açık Radyo.&nbsp;An avid supporter of culture and arts, Koç Holding is happy to sponsor the Istanbul Biennial by 2036. To find the short film focusing on the healing and transformative qualities of art, you may visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQsmVol36bI&ab_channel=Ko%C3%A7Holding&utm_source=aposto" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">this link.</a>&nbsp;

18 Eylül - Koç Holding x İstanbul Bienali - Soli ing

The first step was taken at Barın Han. We came to the Protestant Church by passing from street to street, accompanied by the sounds of moving boxes and pigeons flying above us, with simit and chocolate açma bought from the bakery. While we are there, we decide to have a cup of tea with Recep Abi.

Çemberlitaş Route from Barın Han to the Protestant Church


THE ROUTE

Zımba Dünyası (World of Staplers), exists since 1950. The third generation Cenk is thirty-six years old, and an apprentice since he was fifteen. He is a college graduate but life conditions made him go back to his family profession. When he was younger, this was a street of shoestores and leather shops where you couldn’t walk through in peace because of all the hammering noises. Nowadays, it is calm but the small businesses still keep working and producing.Cenk has a rabbit and a parrot inside the store. He puts chairs in front of his desk for us, and we start our conversation with one eye on him and one eye on the animals.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2022/8/2/1663659210471.jpeg" width="550" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.80" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Cenk in his studio<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">What kind of a neighbourhood is Çemberlitaş?This is a very historic place. Right opposite my shop there is the Gedikpaşa Armenian Protestant Church. Many people from Iran come here. Weddings and associations are held here. As a neighbourhood, we embrace this place very much, we take care of it.&nbsp;If we think of Istanbul as a human body, this place is the stomach of Istanbul, Sirkeci is the heart, Eminönü is the brain for me. This place is also a very delicious place for those who know it. If you give some time to familiarize Çemberlitaş.How do you know the neighbourhood of Çemberlitaş?Neighbourliness can still continue here and this is very valuable. Breakfasts, shopping, and trade are always done through each other. Funerals and weddings are done together. Why? Work starts early here. We see our friends in the neighbourhood more than our families, and this binds us together.For example, for breakfast in the mornings, we buy clotted cream from Kumkapı, simit, tomatoes, cheese, whatever we have. We always set the table in front of the door. So when you say 'Bon appetite', we give you some for the road. It's still like that here.For you what difference does the stapler store being in this neighbourhood make? For what purpose do the neighbourhood residents come here?Those who want to produce or those who follow their imagination come here. We are the only one in the neighbourhood. Without us or without these materials, people cannot do this job. We facilitate the process. When the neighbourhood wants, I give lessons, I explain what I know. Workshop apprentices, those who work at home, or foreigners come, and we relearn together. What I enjoy the most is the moment when people discover the materials.Then a customer walks in. "I always talked to your uncle, can you help out me this time?" he asks. Cenk draws the desired watch strap right there, they exchange phone numbers to communicate before he leaves.The neighbourhood is still warm and friendly. There is still the smell of simit on the street, the sound of tea and laughter coming from the next table to yours.

We are chatting with Cenk, the third generation of the family business selling staplers.

Seventy-two years in business: Zımba Dünyası

SHOOT THE BREEZE

TODAY'S SPONSOR

<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2022/8/0/1662891353037.jpeg" width="550" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.80" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Recep in front of Gedikpaşa Armenian Protestant Church<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">We wandered through streets divided according to products; bag makers, silversmiths, fabric sellers, shoemakers, with chocolate açma in our hands. We visited museums, and exhibitions, and fed the pigeons. We gathered energy for new routes. Now, we are ready - with every cell in our body!

POSTCARD

Istanbul based urban culture magazine documenting cities through their neighborhoods and communities. 

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Kültür hakkında yayımlanan makaleler ve yayınlar

Kültür

Soli

Six neighbourhoods to host the 17th Istanbul Biennial: Balat, Çemberlitaş, Sıraselviler, Tophane, Yeldeğirmeni, Zeytinburnu. We are wandering the city we live in as travellers.Today the route takes us to Çemberlitaş