Between 17 September and 20 November, we stroll around <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1iYWxhdA%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1664972707008000&usg=AOvVaw1aTjvqTXJPDHmDrKHchBsZ" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1iYWxhdA==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Balat</a>, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1jZW1iZXJsaXRhcw%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1664972707008000&usg=AOvVaw3czmh-5hk1BAMhVtXNYyZB" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1jZW1iZXJsaXRhcw==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Çemberlitaş</a>, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1zaXJhc2VsdmlsZXI%3D&source=gmail&ust=1664972707008000&usg=AOvVaw0E96WV2DmshMnqVc2FQGzF" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1zaXJhc2VsdmlsZXI=" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Sıraselviler</a>, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC10b3BoYW5l&source=gmail&ust=1664972707008000&usg=AOvVaw12Rs8NhcJkwvOhhKMHBiss" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC10b3BoYW5l" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Tophane</a>, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC15ZWxkZWdpcm1lbmk%3D&source=gmail&ust=1664972707008000&usg=AOvVaw0NYqeDXtivxFt14bIuTN7S" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC15ZWxkZWdpcm1lbmk=" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Yeldeğirmeni</a>, and <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC16ZXl0aW5idXJudQ%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1664972707008000&usg=AOvVaw32tp7wolu3yq-_VIFC1Ech" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkODU4NTU1MWUwMDA2N2NiOTIyJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC16ZXl0aW5idXJudQ==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s; text-decoration-skip: objects; -webkit-user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Zeytinburnu</a> for the 17th Istanbul Biennial. This year’s Biennial takes its inspiration from compost, a natural fertilisation method in which many different organic wastes are brought together and decomposed. We stroll around these neighbourhoods one more time, but this time for the Biennial, we enter streets we frequent less, and peek through the doors of the buildings whose names we have just heard of. This time, we let our eyes roam over the city we are native of, like travellers. When our feet get tired, but not our minds, we catch our breath in a café where locals sit. It is the curiosity that makes our feet stand back up again. We feel homely and then unhomely again. We swing around the authentic and the cliché, the old and the new, the traditional and the modern, the nostalgic and the futuristic, between the black and the white of the six neighbourhoods where the 17th Istanbul Biennial is spread.&nbsp;‘Can the streets be audible and/or silent narrators of the neighbourhood at the same time?’. This question is on our minds as we traverse the streets again and again. We continue on our route through artisan and artist workshops, streets, parks, restaurants, shops, and cultural centres to better understand and read the neighbourhoods and become a participant in their everyday culture.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/9/2/1664887499988.jpeg" width="550" tabindex="0" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.80" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Sıraselviler streets and colossal doors<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">This week, we salute you from Sıraselviler. Yes, from that famous Sıraselviler Street, the connector of Taksim to Cihangir, the everyday host of thousands of people and dozens of cultural practices. Up in Sıraselviler, there is the park home to the trees that ignite the emotion of solidarity. Down in Sıraselviler, there is Cihangir and its people that resist the urban transformation.&nbsp;Follow us, Soli team

<h1 fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3Dzet0f?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Koç Holding</a>&nbsp;welcomes art enthusiasts to the&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3Ss28zx?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">17th Istanbul Biennial</a></h1> Organized by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (İKSV) since 1987 and sponsored by Koç Holding since 2007, the 17th edition of the Istanbul Biennial continues.The Biennial, which will be open to public visit until 20 November, is prepared with a different approach in this edition due to the pandemic precautions as well as its one-year delay.The 17th Istanbul Biennial meets its viewers in various <a fr-original-style="" href="https://bienal.iksv.org/tr/17-istanbul-bienali/mekanlar?utm_source=aposto" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">spots</a> of the city such as bookstores, hospitals, nursing homes, cafes, metro stations, and Açık Radyo.&nbsp;An avid supporter of culture and arts, Koç Holding is happy to sponsor the Istanbul Biennial by 2036. To find the short film focusing on the healing and transformative qualities of art, you may visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQsmVol36bI&ab_channel=Ko%C3%A7Holding&utm_source=aposto" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">this link.</a>&nbsp;

4 Ekim - Koç Holding x İstanbul Bienali - Soli eng

We are in and around Sıraselviler. The neighbourhood that connects Taksim to Cihangir and that wears on the chaos and diversity of Istanbul. The neighbourhood that we read the transformation from its face.

Sıraselviler route from Saha Studio to Geyik

THE ROUTE

Outside are the two chairs for a warm chit-chat; inside are handmade ceramics, beautiful green plants, Sıraselviler’s essential cats who snuggle down to sleep at any place they find, and all kinds of vegan products. Tarkan Abi, who has been a local for 18 years, welcomes us with his cat in his arms. &nbsp;How was the concept and idea of opening a vegan store shaped?&nbsp;This hood is both very central and colourful. It continuously nourishes people with its locals and structure. Although it has slightly changed in recent years, just like Taksim, I believe that the hood still resists and doesn’t lose its soul. I don’t regret being here and I don’t think I will ever regret it. Day by day, the bond we established is growing and getting stronger with the support of the locals.Animal products harm us by making us sick, without us noticing; however, whatever grows in the soil is healing. 18 years ago, I based my life on this awareness. At that time, the store was vegetarian, and so was I. In the past, veganism was not a widely known concept. About 16 years ago, I became vegan and the store changed, transformed, and turned into how it looks like today. I don’t place the products I haven’t tried like on the shelves, this is crucial for me. Fermented cashew products are especially the essentials of the store. &nbsp;I feel like what I would like to build here will fall short unless I have a transparent relationship with customers. I guess locals also notice this approach. Customers become regulars in time and near restaurants provide their needs from the store. Thanks to them, we have a sincere and robust bond.&nbsp;Do you think there is something that the hood would be better off without?There is a spectacular, historical building in front of us. For years, it was used as the parking area of the hood. Recently it has passed into other hands and we got the news that it will be a steakhouse.&nbsp;A couple of days ago, Şükran Moral, who is also a regular of Vegan Dükkân, came from Italy. Of course, she stopped by. During her visit, the curtains of the store in front of us were drawn. Since she couldn’t see what was inside, she went on to say&nbsp;‘Is this place becoming a cultural centre? If so, let’s organise an exhibition so we can come together with art lovers.’. ‘Such a naive approach.’ I thought. I believe this single instance indicates the kind of transformation Turkey has been going through. As a vegan store owner, it would be lying to say that the newly opened restaurant does not disturb me and the locals. I hope, in time, a life where no living creatures are harmed will become the priority for us all.&nbsp;

We stopped by Tarkan Abi in Sıraselviler. We talked about Vegan Dükkân (literally a vegan store), the hood, and its transformation and we stuffed our basket with vegan products. 

The vegan stop of the hood for 16 years

STOP BY

TODAY'S SPONSOR

<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2022/9/2/1664896791443.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Break for some chit-chat at Sıraselviler, definitely with tea.Photo: Kaan Walsh<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">It’s hard to count how many songs have been composed or poems have been written for Sıraselviler, it's past and memories, and its lovers. We couldn’t get enough of exploring this neighbourhood that tells another story when you keep on walking on its pavements. We’ll be back, for sure, to get lost in its streets.

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Istanbul based urban culture magazine documenting cities through their neighborhoods and communities. 

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Six neighbourhoods to host the 17th Istanbul Biennial: Balat, Çemberlitaş, Sıraselviler, Tophane, Yeldeğirmeni, Zeytinburnu. We are wandering the city we live in as travellers. Today the route takes us to: Sıraselviler