Between September 17 and November 20, we stroll around <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1iYWxhdA%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw3JdonSVu2Ih_RD2KRxPinu" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1iYWxhdA==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Balat</a>, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1jZW1iZXJsaXRhcw%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw14gLyQsJjESu1nocb94x_P" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1jZW1iZXJsaXRhcw==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Çemberlitaş</a>, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1zaXJhc2VsdmlsZXI%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw3Cm1us0Py0YLVr0hw6bY4Q" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC1zaXJhc2VsdmlsZXI=" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Sıraselviler</a>, Tophane, <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC15ZWxkZWdpcm1lbmk%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw1fcVJYxtibi9XgSqhfUyk9" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC15ZWxkZWdpcm1lbmk=" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Yeldeğirmeni</a> and <a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC16ZXl0aW5idXJudQ%3D%3D&source=gmail&ust=1665135579534000&usg=AOvVaw2aVyp_T0C_UOt0jnugIsGY" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxNWJkNzBlMTVmNDYwMDA2MmQzY2ZjJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NjFiYzQ2M2QxNDg2YTUwMDA2Mzc4ZWU0Jm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjJhY2FiNjM2MDYyOTIwMDA2ZTYyZDBkJnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRmFwb3MudG8lMjUyRmklMjUyRnNvbGktaXMtYXQtMTd0aC1pc3RhbmJ1bC1iaWVubmlhbC16ZXl0aW5idXJudQ==" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Zeytinburnu</a> for the 17th Istanbul Biennial. This year’s biennial takes its inspiration from compost, a natural fertilisation method in which many different organic wastes are brought together and decomposed. We stroll around these neighbourhoods one more time, but this time for the Biennial, we enter streets we frequent less and peek through the doors of the buildings whose names we have just heard of. This time, we let our eyes roam over the city we are native of, like travellers. When our feet get tired, but not our minds, we catch our breath in a café where locals sit. It is the curiosity that makes our feet stand back up again. We feel homely and then unhomely again. We swing around the authentic and the cliché, the old and the new, the traditional and the modern, the nostalgic and the futuristic, between the black and the white of the six neighbourhoods where the 17th Istanbul Biennial is spread.&nbsp;‘Can the streets be audible and/or silent narrators of the neighbourhood at the same time?’. This question is on our minds as we traverse the streets again and again. We continue on our route through artisan and artist workshops, streets, parks, restaurants, shops, and cultural centres to better understand and read the neighbourhoods and become a participant in their everyday culture.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/9/4/1665049224923.jpeg" width="550" tabindex="0" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.80" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Tophane windows<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">This week the route takes us to the&nbsp;Tophane neighbourhood. We stop by Tophane's biennial venues&nbsp;performistanbul,&nbsp;Büyükdere35, from Boğazkesen to Lüleci Hendek, and then we walk up Dibek Street and Defterdar Yokuşu. Famously, Istanbul has 7 hills, and we feel it. We take a breather on the streets overlooking the sea and walk through the streets of Tophane.Follow us,Soli team

<h1 fr-original-style="" style="font-size: 2em; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3Dzet0f?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Koç Holding</a>&nbsp;welcomes art enthusiasts to the&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://bit.ly/3Ss28zx?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">17th Istanbul Biennial</a></h1> Organized by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (İKSV) since 1987 and sponsored by Koç Holding since 2007, the 17th edition of the Istanbul Biennial continues.The Biennial, which will be open to public visit until 20 November, is prepared with a different approach in this edition due to the pandemic precautions as well as its one-year delay.The 17th Istanbul Biennial meets its viewers in various <a fr-original-style="" href="https://bienal.iksv.org/tr/17-istanbul-bienali/mekanlar?utm_source=aposto" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">spots</a> of the city such as bookstores, hospitals, nursing homes, cafes, metro stations, and Açık Radyo.&nbsp;An avid supporter of culture and arts, Koç Holding is happy to sponsor the Istanbul Biennial by 2036. To find the short film focusing on the healing and transformative qualities of art, you may visit <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQsmVol36bI&ab_channel=Ko%C3%A7Holding&utm_source=aposto" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">this link.</a>&nbsp;

Ekim - Koç Holding x İstanbul Bineali - Soli ing

This week the route takes us to the Tophane neighbourhood. We stop by Tophane's biennial venues performistanbul, Büyükdere35, from Boğazkesen to Lüleci Hendek, then we walk up Dibek Street and Defterdar Yokuşu. 

Tophane Route from Boğazkesen to Pera Museum

THE ROUTE

I approached him enthusiastically. He got offended; however, he tried not to make it obvious. ‘Daughter, you do not stand on the counter with your shoes on.’ I felt ashamed. This time, I properly got down, next to him.&nbsp;There were yellow walls, and fuchsia and pistachio green quilts were hung on the walls. The store is 70 years old, and he has been a local for the last 50 &nbsp;years. He has been called ‘Tophaneli Beşir Abi’ since he was 11. He is a board member of İstanbul Yorgancılar Odası, (Istanbul Quilters Association) at the same time. His quilts are made-to-order. A clipping caught my eye, and later I learnt that Beşir Abi has been quilting for the Queen and Arab sheikhs, shipping his quilts internationally.&nbsp;<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2022/9/5/1665153395589.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Beşir Abi<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Lately, Beşir Abi makes his own tea.&nbsp;‘There used to be a coffeehouse we would usually go to, but after Galataport was opened, modern cafés came forward. The artisans had to flee. I have never set foot in one of those modern cafés. The next thing I knew, I was making my own tea.’ says Beşir Abi talking about the transformation he went through.&nbsp;What are the essentials of a quilt?&nbsp;What matters to you the most? What are your essentials? Let me ask you. ‘A happy and healthy life’, isn’t it? Quilts lie behind that. They are your power banks that determine how your day goes. You spend 1/3 of your day under the quilt which makes it even more precious than clothes. Thus, our craft is vital.Quilts that are not hand-sewn are synthetic and unhealthy. They all contain cancerogenes. People are not able to see what they purchase, which is a huge drawback. If we talk about quilts, we should talk about those made out of pure wool and carefully stitched instead of those which come out of mass production.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2022/9/5/1665153428323.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Colourful duvets<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">How do you see the future of quilting?We inherited this craft from our masters. We would like to pass it on to the next generations, but we cannot find anyone to do so. I have a son; however, he was not interested in learning the craft of quilting while growing up. Though, it is not a craft that has to be handed down from the older to the younger.&nbsp;In fact, quilting has been a part of our lives for about 7-8 centuries. During the Ottoman period, they used to quilt kaftans (robes) to keep themselves warm. Nowadays, this tradition seems to be forgotten. In fact, this craft should be taught in art schools.In our country, young people have a hard time finding a job after they graduate from university. Unfortunately, we cannot provide them with a reliable future. Actually, everybody should have expertise in their job, starting from childhood, just the way it is in Europe. Artisanry is not looked down on, it is highly valued. Contrary to Turkey, children can receive education according to the field they are talented in. This is a huge difference.&nbsp;We lack guidance. I learnt the craft by zonking out in the corners of the counter. I believe this is how you learn it, experiencing it in its place. Back in the day, when our mothers would trust the masters with us, they had the ‘all yours’ kind of mentality. Nowadays, there is nobody left with this perspective. Maybe that's why quilting is faced with the threat of coming to an end. &nbsp;Speaking the truth with Beşir Abi was hard on me, but I felt at ease and filled with hope. I said goodbye to Beşir Abi. I’m sure I’ll be back and drink his tea again.&nbsp;

There is a tiny, colourful shop, two steps into Soğancı Street. Beşir Abi welcomed me at the counter; with a paper, which looks like acetate paper, attached to the burgundy piece in his hand and the patterns drawn finely with a pencil that became clear as you got closer.

From the master to the apprentice Quilting

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TODAY'S SPONSOR

<img data-fr-image-pasted="true" lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2022/8/1/1662975088655.jpeg" width="550" data-bit="iit" tabindex="0" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Cats, rugs, and street sights<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Dear Solitan,&nbsp;It’s very valuable to experience the joy of the Biennial and to feel the art in Tophane with you. While visiting Pera Museum, Tütün Deposu, and Tavern, we lost track of time. Now we’re heading to Firüzağa Hamamı to recharge ourselves for future adventures.&nbsp;

POSTCARD

Istanbul based urban culture magazine documenting cities through their neighborhoods and communities. 

Seyahat

Kültür hakkında yayımlanan makaleler ve yayınlar

Kültür

Soli

Six neighbourhoods to host the 17th Istanbul Biennial: Balat, Çemberlitaş, Sıraselviler, Tophane, Yeldeğirmeni, Zeytinburnu. We are wandering the city we live in as travellers. Today the route takes us to: Tophane