Neighborood: Gayrettepe. Local:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/ceyda.artun/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Ceyda Artun</a>. Photos:&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/denizsabuncu/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Deniz Sabuncu</a>.&nbsp;The most distinctive feature of Gayrettepe is its slopes. When you are headed to your destination, the endless slopes and stairs start to fill up, you realize that you are in Gayrettepe. I believe that's where the name comes from; an appeal created by its topography, such as "Make an effort and get out of those hills."(“Gayret” means “effort” in English)&nbsp;Nuts are what I hate the most in life, but even I eat it once a year and try it. I test myself to see if I still don't like it. There is a similar experience in Istanbul. The city is huge, complex and vibrant. I always thought that if I was going to live here, my Istanbul should be smaller. In order to create my own Istanbul, I looked for a place where I could be close to my family, friends and workplace, and if necessary, I could continue my life without leaving these borders. I moved here from Eskişehir 4 years ago.&nbsp;<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/5/1674222792235.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Gayrettepe, where old and new live together</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Unlike how it seems, it is not a campus of plazas; Gayrettepe is an old-style neighborhood caught between workplaces. Safe place with large apartments with balconies and people who have lived in these buildings for generations. In fact, Gayrettepe Environment, Culture and Business Cooperative was established because the hotels, banks and skyscrapers crammed the neighborhood and affected the quality of life. It is one of the safest regions in Istanbul against earthquakes. Since it is on a rock, it does not get its share of crooked urbanization because it does not need it. The buildings are old and solid. Also, from time to time, at unexpected moments; parks, apple and cherry trees come your way.<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/5/1674222709806.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">We're in Petra, and the neighborhood is following us</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Pasta in Oklava, beer in Malt</h2>Although there are many restaurants serving workplaces in Gayrettepe, there are many places between the streets where there are regulars. It is possible to find examples of world cuisine, artisan restaurants and pop-up chef restaurants here. For example, chef <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/ozgeceltukk/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Özge Çeltük</a>'s brand new initiative on fresh pasta, Oklava, is great.&nbsp;One of my favorite places to spend time is Petra. I am a regular because of the ambiance, the food and beverage options, the shop that opens up space for artists, the retro product selections and, of course, the coffee. When Petra first opened, I did not live here yet, but I came often because my brother was in Gayrettepe. Back then, it didn't have an ambitious kitchen as it does now, the story began with high-quality coffees and a spacious meeting point, space to grab your laptop and work. It quickly became a popular destination not only for the locals but also for people from many parts of Istanbul, and while giving directions in Gayrettepe, it became an alternative reference to the Florence Nightingale Hospital.&nbsp;When my nightlife was more lively, I would definitely stop by the neighborhood bar <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/maltthebar/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Malt</a> every day and dive into a conversation somewhere. It has been here since 1989. Malt is a bar that plays 90s rock and where its regulars can leave their mark on its music. I think the best thing to do to understand the neighborhood is to spend time in your bar because you know your neighbor, your tradespeople are there, and you form groups of friends there. One of the trademarks of Gayrettepe is, I think, the ocakbaşı culture (traditional meat restaurants). There are many tiny taverns between the streets. <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/citirocakbasii/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Çıtır Ocakbaşı</a> is the place where the locals spend most of their time. If you are here, the nights usually end in Malt. Although there is no competition, my preference is <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/aleniocakbasi/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Aleni Ocakbaşı</a>.&nbsp;<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/5/1674222432403.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Inhabitants of the neighborhood</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">An old Gayrettepe local: Baylan</h2>In the past, Gayrettepe was one of the neighborhoods that shaped the food and drink culture of Istanbul. Philippe Lenas, an Albanian immigrant, opened his first pastry shop with his partner Yorgi Kiriç in 1923 in Beyoğlu Deva Dead End Street, then moved below the Luvr Apartment Building. He named the shop after Loryan, a Turkish pronunciation of the French word l'Orient (East). The second branch opened shortly after in Karaköy, in 1925. With a law enacted in Turkey in 1934, it is compulsory for commercial enterprises such as hotels and pastry shops to use Turkish names. In those days, Loryan also suffered from nationalist fanatical groups attacking stores that did not bear Turkish names around Beyoğlu. During this period, the art history professor Burhan Toprak, one of the regulars of the pastry shop, suggested the name <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/baylanistanbul/?utm_source=aposto" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Baylan</a>, which means "perfection, excellence". Baylan became a meeting point for intellectuals in the 1950s. Behçet Necatigil,&nbsp;Attila İlhan, Fikret Hakan,&nbsp;Hilmi Yavuz,&nbsp;Fethi Naci and Haldun Taner hung out here. Salah Birsel writes about Baylan, Demir Özlü refers to it as "the basic tavern of his youth".<img lazy="loading" src="https://images.aposto.com/1200xauto/2023/0/5/1674222272442.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Time for a walk in the neighborhood</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">It introduced tiramisu, espresso, cappuccino, chocolate with liquor, lemon and croquant, and Kup Griye, the invention of Monsieur Harry, the eldest son of Philippe Lenas, to Turkey. Baylan's chocolate factory, where Istanbulites learned about the Tages Bar and which today has branches in Bebek and Kadıköy, was moved from Mumhane Street to Gayrettepe in 1953. During the deportations of Greek people in 1964, some factories were confiscated by the state. Baylan Chocolate Factory in Gayrettepe is one of them. First, it was transferred to Attorney M. İlkin Okan. He continued to trade under the name "Milo Baylan" and was permanently closed in 1984. Baylan is now in Karaköy again after 29 years.&nbsp;

The ones under the ground are traveling inside rectangular boxes, buried in the screens in their palms. On this stratum, they differentiate from one another as the ones who disembark, who get on, who give their seats, who follow another’s book pages with their glance, who raise their voice to the one who is already aloud, who chafe at swinging legs, who take their tongues out to the kid across, who give out sound music from their headphones, who are humming the song they are listening to, filling the train car with the stinky food they had eaten. They unite when it comes to waiting for the announcement of the station they would get off. On the surface, those on the terra firma are in a rush. They stop on the red, cross on the yellow, accelerate on the green, walk amongst the high-rise buildings, and race against the time not to be late to classes, meetings, rendez-vous. <img src="https://images.aposto.com/2023/0/1/1674462527112.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Gayrettepe</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">The ones above are stacked behind sealed windows, sitting around a round table connecting to other zones, skies, and seasons. The sound reaches nine hours ahead with a delay of a few seconds. “Could you repeat the last sentence?”, asks the one taking notes.&nbsp;On the second floor, cards are distributed on the axis of the elliptical table, the maid gets old, the eights get crazy, and those who are ready to win the rummy kiss their dices of luck.&nbsp;On the forth - button 3 with the elevator - floor, the celeriac is roasting in the oven; because there is no tahini, the dressing is soy.&nbsp;At the downhill, the beer is being brewed in the factory. Triple-cooked potatoes would be toothsome with it. The handbags are removed from wooden chairs on the corner of the street because friends join the squad. Bean salad with red onions is passing through the table while bread pieces float in the salad dressing.&nbsp;This is an ordinary, habitual, usual, accustomed day in Gayrettepe.Hazal

Istanbul based urban culture magazine documenting cities through their neighborhoods and communities. 

A collective and traveling culture magazine uncovering the cities in neighborhoods, with their people. 

Soli

Neighborhood: Gayrettepe. A local and the narrator: Ceyda Artun.

📍 Gayrettepe, Ceyda Artun

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Kültür

We grabbed our coffee from Petra, we are exploring the streets of the hood with plenty of slopes. We are trying, we will climb that hill and order ourselves zetinyağlı yaprak sarması (stuffed vine leaves) in Prasini Papia.