In 2005, I moved to Kemerburgaz with my family. At that time, the construction of the Hasdal Road, which connects Kemerburgaz and Göktürk to the city, had just been completed. Before this, it was a single-lane dirt road that made the area feel like the city’s outskirts. With the development of Kemer Country between Kemerburgaz and Göktürk, the area began to buzz with activity. Landowners with building permits started developing their plots into residential sites, and what was once a quiet village began to transform into a bustling neighborhood.Kemerburgaz is a very old settlement with a history that dates back to Byzantine times, when it was known as Pirgos. During the Ottoman period, it became a village primarily inhabited by Greeks. After the 93 War, it began receiving immigrants. In 1924, during the population exchange, the Greeks were relocated to Greece, and Turks from Thessaloniki were settled here. Since then, the area has experienced various waves of migration, becoming a place marked by many comings and goings. Over the past 20 years, I’ve witnessed this ongoing transformation as both an incoming and outgoing resident.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2024/7/5/1724438316309.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Starting point: Kemerburgaz and its surroundings transform</h3>In the last 10 to 15 years, Kemerburgaz has undergone dizzying changes. As more families with children moved in, the area began to attract significant attention. With its more spacious homes, often with gardens compared to those in the city center, Kemerburgaz quickly became a desirable location for families. Unlike more remote areas such as Zekeriyaköy and Demirciköy, Göktürk and Kemerburgaz are closer to the city centers, making them practical choices for those seeking to escape the city's intensity. This proximity led to rapid urbanization and a significant increase in the number of residential developments.In terms of urbanization, Göktürk has surpassed Kemerburgaz. Once home to just a few shops and cafes, it is now bustling with brands and stores lining the main street. New dining spots have opened, and traffic congestion has become a concern. The arrival of the metro and its proximity to Istanbul Airport have further boosted accessibility. For anyone who knew Göktürk in 2005, the transformation remains surprising.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2024/7/5/1724438343755.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Though Kemerburgaz is now more crowded and concrete than before, it still retains its charm with local pickle shops, cafes, and long-time residents. Before the surge in residential site development, it was considered a village, and it still feels like one to me, especially given its location at the entrance to Belgrad Forest. For a long time, the lack of building permits slowed development, allowing Kemerburgaz to remain a quieter, more self-contained place compared to the rapidly expanding Göktürk.In recent years, the proximity to Istanbul Airport and the convenience for airline employees have also contributed to Kemerburgaz’s growing population, particularly in residential sites. The area has become a mix of long-time and new residents. However, in the gated communities, there’s often little sense of connection to the broader area. Large residence sites like Kemer Country, with their markets, dining spots, and social areas, function as self-contained neighborhoods, lacking a shared culture or engagement with the outside community. The new residents seem to favor this insularity.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2024/7/5/1724438367537.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">The catalysts</h3>A few years ago, I moved back to Kemerburgaz. During my high school years here, I found the area somewhat boring, with limited activities available. My friends and I would often meet up just to drink coffee and browse supermarket shelves. The distance and transportation challenges made it difficult for me to stay out late in the city center, unlike my friends who frequented Beyoğlu after school.After spending a decade in Kemerburgaz, I moved to the city center. However, in late 2022, due to changes in my personal life, I returned to Kemerburgaz. My family had an empty apartment here, allowing me to live rent-free—a crucial advantage at the time. Initially, I thought my stay would be brief, given my need to be in the city center for work. However, I returned at a time of skyrocketing rents. Even poorly maintained apartments had exorbitant prices.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2024/7/5/1724438386390.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">The unfortunate earthquakes in Southeast Anatolia in February 2023 brought many neglected issues into sharp focus, including the looming threat of an Istanbul earthquake. The apartments I viewed during that period raised concerns about earthquake resilience. Questions arose about whether my current building would be subject to urban transformation and if I might need to move again. Meanwhile, rents continued to soar beyond my ability to keep track.As I run my own business and strive to maintain the economic stability of our team and company, Dadanizm, finding a rental apartment seemed increasingly unrealistic. The building I live in is newly constructed, thoroughly inspected, and low-rise, which provides a sense of safety despite my concerns about a potential Istanbul earthquake. For these reasons, I continue to call Kemerburgaz home. Additionally, I’ve started a part-time adventure in London, spending part of the year there. Until I decide where to put down permanent roots, Kemerburgaz, with all its tranquility, remains my home for now.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2024/7/5/1724438401931.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">New perspective on Kemerburgaz</h3>Having lived in Kemerburgaz for nearly 20 years, my perspective on the area has changed with age. In my younger years, I longed for the bustling, diverse city life. Now, living on the edge of the forest feels far more fulfilling. In spring, I can hear the nightingales sing from my home, and sometimes I turn everything off at night just to listen to them. The slow pace and tranquility that once seemed tedious now bring me comfort. Occasionally, I still visit the city center to buy pickles and enjoy the shop’s complimentary pickle juice.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2024/7/5/1724438419409.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">A new center and the right to housing</h3>Nearly 15 years ago, Kemerburgaz felt much farther from the city center due to limited transportation options. Although transportation remains a challenge, the addition of new bus lines and the metro has made it feel more connected. With the increased traffic from Istanbul Airport, Kemerburgaz now seems closer in everyone’s minds, no longer perceived as a distant location.Access to housing in Istanbul is in crisis. With rents skyrocketing, everyone seems to be discussing their living situations. As our purchasing power decreases, rising rents leave many feeling helpless. Housing is a fundamental right, yet many high-rent buildings lack proper earthquake safety checks and incur additional maintenance costs.In contrast, Kemerburgaz is in a less earthquake-prone area, and most buildings here are new, constructed after 1999 and even within the last 5 or 6 years. This is significant because, unlike older, high-rent buildings in the city center, these newer buildings do not require extra renovation costs. The realities of earthquakes and the housing crisis are driving demand for areas like Kemerburgaz and Göktürk. These factors have also influenced my decision to stay here, reflecting the choices of many new residents.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2024/7/5/1724438438537.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Future expansion and housing crisis</h3>How much can Istanbul’s center expand in the next 15-20 years due to the housing crisis? How might suburban areas and villages along the Black Sea coast evolve into new centers? These are critical questions urban planners need to address.Göktürk is already becoming a major center, with every available plot being transformed into new residential sites. When we first moved here in 2005, development was already intense, but the pandemic and the expansion of Istanbul Airport have only increased interest further. Now, excavation trucks are a common sight. To me, Kemerburgaz is synonymous with excavation trucks. With Göktürk so close to the third bridge, rapid development seems inevitable. However, the state of the northern forests saddens me. We’re expanding, moving, and demolishing, often without fully understanding the costs of these sacrifices for new centers.Despite being surrounded by Belgrad Forest and Kağıthane Creek (and even having the center of Hamidiye water here), the daily rush and concrete expansion mean that residents have little direct connection with nature. Houses are getting closer together, gardens are shrinking, and concrete is becoming more prevalent, even though we are encircled by forest. Apart from occasional weekend outings to the forest, nature has minimal impact on daily life here.If we were to establish an ecological and culturally vibrant arts village in Kemerburgaz, my first suggestion would be to preserve a green space without immediately constructing buildings. Joking aside, I might end up being the person lamenting, "This was all mulberry trees," when reminiscing about Kemerburgaz in the future.Editor’s note:&nbsp;This article is based on an interview between Seden Mestan and Elif Bayram.

Soli

A story of someone working in the cultural and artistic industry, constantly moving between the city centers, yet calling Kemerburgaz home. Accompanied by: the rumble of excavation trucks and the traces of transformation in Kemerburgaz.

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