The neighbourhood: Rüstem Paşa. Locals: Gülin Özalp. Shop: Pandeli. Photos: Deniz Sabuncu.Rüstem Paşa has represented the most colourful side of socio-economic life for thousands of years, with its open-air bazaar, shops, market, inns, mosques, square and historical Egyptian Bazaar. This is a lively, highly energetic, and crowded neighbourhood. As soon as I pass through Karaköy and enter the Galata Bridge, I find myself in the middle of the movement. I feel that I have arrived in the neighbourhood. The Spice Bazaar, where the heart of the trade beats, is in this neighbourhood, and right next to it, Eminönü, where I can supply the basic needs of the shop, the movement of the ferries docking one after another, the rush of pedestrians are the trademarks of here. As lively and crowded as it is during the day due to trade, it is just as deserted and quiet at night.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/11/5/1670569680219.jpeg" style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.67" width="550" fr-original-style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Gülin</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Thanks to the abundance of street flavours and artisan restaurants, one wanders among saporous smells. The Spice Bazaar, which was known as a spice centre in the Ottoman Empire, has lost its fundamental function with the opening of shops by different tradespeople; however, there are still places, like Malatya Bazaar, where we shop here and there. The food and beverage culture is as active as the city itself. Some disappear, but new ones come into their place right after. Of course, there are also things that remain rooted and unchanging, such as bazaars and mosques. Pandeli, whose home has been Rüstem Paşa for 122 years, is one of them.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/11/5/1670569786046.jpeg" style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.67" width="550" fr-original-style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Mr Pandeli's special aubergine döner börek</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">The story of Mr Pandeli</h2>Mr Pandeli, a Greek from Niğde. As soon as he came to Istanbul, he started working in various professions other than portering, which was his father's profession. He first started selling meatballs and&nbsp;piyaz&nbsp;(a Turkish food with kidney beans, onion, and olive oil) in a portable car on Mercan Slope, behind the Spice Bazaar. When his&nbsp;piyaz's&nbsp;became very popular, the neighbourhood pushed him to open his own meatball shop. In this modest place in Çukur Han, he continues his passion for his father's profession and serves meatball bread to the porters. At the period of the World War I, the Hamal Lokantası was gradually becoming a frequent place for intellectuals, journalists, poets, writers, and politicians. Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar, Yahya Kemal Beyatlı, Hüseyin Cahit Yalçın, Orhan Seyfi Orhon, Faruk Nafiz Çamlıbel, and Ahmet Haşim from Turkey; Queen Elizabeth II, King Juan Carlos of Spain, Queen Sofia, and Audrey Hepburn are just some from around the world who have tasted Pandeli.However, the effects of the war turned out severe, and Mr Pandeli had to return to Niğde. After the war, it reunites with its regulars in a 3-storey building at Yağcılar İskelesi in Eminönü. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk is one of those regulars, too. When he was in Ankara, he used to miss Pandeli and sometimes when he would have guests in Ankara, the special orders he had made were delivered to him by train from Istanbul.This love and devotion, unfortunately, came to a stop again when the shop was looted during the Istanbul pogrom and Mr Pandeli gave up his profession. Later on, then-President Celal Bayar and Prime Minister Adnan Menderes, who heard the news from the newspaper headlines, persuaded Pandeli, and the upper floor at the entrance of the Spice Bazaar, where it is today, was allocated to Pandeli Restaurant by state order.&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/11/5/1670569825957.jpeg" style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.67" width="550" fr-original-style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Spice Bazaar</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Our regulars: Spice Bazaar’s shopkeepers</h2>Rüstem Paşa does not have particular regulars. This place belongs to all of us. With those who come every day, regulars, nomads, and the indispensable. Since the neighbourhood is a commercial centre, its energy is very high and there are always tourists, but for shops like ours to be sustainable, the primary job is to satisfy the local guests before the tourists. A significant part of our Pandeli regulars are the tradespeople of the Spice Bazaar. Fishmongers, spice shops, greengrocers and butchers, where we run to when the shop runs out of something. Since we prepare everything on a daily basis, our supplies are limited, and when we run out of stocks, the tradespeople come to our help. It is valuable to support each other and share the same table. This place can make people feel at home, thanks to Aslı Hanıms and Ahmet Beys, who have been coming here for generations and who tell their grandchildren ‘My grandmother used to take me here’ while climbing the stairs of the shop.&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/11/5/1670569898554.jpeg" style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.67" width="550" fr-original-style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Papers folded by the team each morning and sea bass in curlpaper with its special recipe</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">The paper for the sea bass in curlpaper still comes from Athens</h2>After Hristo Bey's death, his daughter Sofia Hanım decided to take over Pandeli, which she had doted upon from Greece and which she had inherited from her grandfather. As regulars who have been coming here for years, we were very sad and refused to believe it, when we learnt that the shop would close. When they offered us to take over the business, we did not know what to do. On the one hand, we were not willing to close it down. On the other hand, the idea of maintaining a place that we loved so much was such a heavy responsibility.It has always been crucial for Sofia Hanım for the shop to meet its regulars. With her support, we continue to run Pandeli, sticking as much as possible to the old tradition. Even during the menu-tasting process, we had Sofia Hanım’s hand on us. One of Pandeli's original tastes, the paper for Mr Pandeli's own recipe, Sea Bass in curlpaper, still comes from Athens today. The paper has a special way of folding. Hristo Bey taught this technique to Özay Bey, who has been devoted to Pandeli since he was 13. Now, Özay Bey and I fold papers every morning before work. It has become a ritual. Most of our colleagues working at Pandeli have been here since the early days. We didn't want to dispel the team or lose that authentic spirit. Now, we are a resilient team that grows together. There is something we have been repeating since the first day:&nbsp;‘This place is not ours, it belongs to all of us, to Istanbul.’<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/11/5/1670569957382.jpeg" style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.67" width="550" fr-original-style="display: block; float: none; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="text-align: center;" style="text-align: center; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Mr Pandeli's special recipe: Cherry Tirit</h4><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">One of the important factors that make up the cuisine of Istanbul is the coexistence of different religious communities in the city. The food cultures of Muslim, Christian and Jewish communities have always been in mutual exchange with one another. Pandeli is a place that has not moved away from the historical peninsula where it was born and even earned a place in memories by identifying with the neighbourhood. Taking inspiration from Istanbul, there is an almost organic relationship between Istanbul and Pandeli.

Soli

Rüstem Paşa has been Pandeli’s home for 122 years.

Papers from Athens, food from shopkeepers, a star from Michelin

But where is actually Tophane, does it exist on the paper?

Fictitious or palpable, does Tophane exist on paper?

<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">The first hours of the morning that start at Journey when you wake up in Cihangir and at Soho House when you open your eyes in Galata,</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Nights ending with dancing at minimüzikhol - after at Kardeşler Kebap of course</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Zeynep Severge's ceramic production in her workshop and the shop Hiç, which combines contemporary design with craft</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">La Cave and Comedus to discover new wines</li></ul><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/5/1/1655724647348.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Comedus<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">The old book sanctuary of Denizler Bookstore - Although we are sad to see them move from their legendary shop on Istiklal Street, we take solace in the fact that they are now closer to Galata; Robinson Crusoe 389, Homeros, and Pandora's for current book discoveries - thank goodness they still exist</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Vacilando's, where you can spend the day with your book open</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Unfortunately, there is no walking area left in Pera, but it is possible to set off from Pera early in the morning and walk across the Galata Bridge to the Archaeology Museum</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">For special antique jewelry, Diamanştayn's is one of the only shops on Istiklal that has not changed despite being damaged during the events of September 6-7</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Vitruta for&nbsp;Lar Studio scarves and candles; Hidden Bee proving that sustainable, local, and independent fashion is possible</li></ul><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/5/1/1655724898626.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">In front of Vitruta display window<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Tunç Balık's smoked salmon sandwich with scallops, unlike anywhere else in Istanbul</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Karaköy Lokantası for hunger,&nbsp;Helvetia and Bankalar Lokantası for lunch</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Looking at the Crimean Church and Der Liebling while passing through Serdar-ı Ekrem</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">When we want to draw a route full of art in Pera, we should mention Akbank Sanat, Yapı Kredi Sanat, SALT, Meşher, Pera Museum, Istanbul Research Institute, ANAMED, Galerist, Galeri Nev, Zilberman, Öktem Aykut, Depo, SAHA Studio, Pilot and many other galleries; and if we include the Karaköy and Dolapdere line within the borders of Beyoğlu to Pera, Istanbul Modern, and Arter</li></ul><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/5/1/1655725356656.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Anlam, in front of the Meşher<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">To listen to music, Borusan Music House, Secret Garden, and Salon İKSV - we used to spend more time in Babylon and Küçük Otto than in our own living room when we were all carefree; let us also remember with longing the lost venues such as Godet, Dulcinea, Münferit, Wake Up Call, Yeni Melek, Emek Cinemas, Ghetto, Indigo, and garajistanbul,</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Let's not forget the shopkeepers of Pera - Hüseyin Turgut, who designs amazing lighting in his shop Lightwork Design on Galata Hoca Ali Street; Mr. Esat, the owner of La Cave; the unchanging teams of Mavra and Journey; Chef Ebru Akpınar, the founder of Yaya Fırın with her addictive cookies and&nbsp;Janset Bilgin, who sells amazing dresses and accessories right across the street; Engin, Harun and Zeki, the hardworking trio of the parking lot on Dibek Street.</li></ul>

Jennifer finds the escape she needs from the city in the walks and runs she takes. This is not just a leisure activity, it is a necessity. This is her cultivated culture of walking and running in Istanbul, our charming craze of a home.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/7/5/1660328505601.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.67" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Jennifer and a specimen of the far east in IstanbulPhoto: Deniz Sabuncu&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Early-morning runs:&nbsp;My favorite early-morning running route in the city is over the Galata Bridge, through Gülhane Park and Sultanahmet, up to the Süleymaniye Camii with its amazing view, and back down over the Haliç metro bridge and along the nice new(-ish) Karaköy waterfront park.&nbsp;</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Long runs: It’s hard to beat the Kadıköy shoreline out to Bostancı – unlike along the Bosphorus, the waterfront path mostly goes through parks, not right alongside the road. Maçka Park and Yıldız Park are hilly but beautiful, as are the trails in the Atatürk City Forest and Belgrad Forest.&nbsp;</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Free runs:&nbsp;I love coming up with small running adventures in the city: a run across all of Istanbul’s historic seven hills, around the whole perimeter of the old land and sea walls, or all around the Haliç.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Community runs: Running is still a bit of a niche activity in Istanbul, but the number of running groups and races has grown so much in the past decade or so. In addition to my own wonderful running group, Istanbul Expat Runners, I’ve got to give a shout out to Adım Adım, which has done so much to encourage a culture of both fitness and charitable fundraising in Turkey, and to&nbsp;No Reason Co., who have been very welcoming to me and my fellow yabancılar&nbsp;at their Istanbul training sessions.</li></ul>

Galata Bridge ile ilgili hikayeler