• Avrupa'nın en zengin altıncı kişisi olan Fransa vatandaşı milyarder iş insanı François Pinault'nun sahibi olduğu şarap şirketi Artémis Domaines, Fransa'nın Champagne bölgesinde yer alan şampanya evi Champagne Jacquesson'un tam mülkiyetini satın aldı. 1798 yılında kurulan Champagne Jacquesson, geleneksel yöntemleri kullanarak yüksek kaliteli şampanya üretmesi ve sürdürülebilirliğe odaklanmasıyla tanınıyor.

Aposto Gündem

Veraison

🍽️ Main Course

Veraison is a wine magazine that finds a place for wine on every table because it believes that wine isn't exclusively meant for fancy tables with white tablecloths.<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Prosecco vs. ChampagneAll in one breath:<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne is French, Prosecco is Italian.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne is from Champagne region; Prosecco is from Veneto region.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne is made from "Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier" grapes; Prosecco is made from&nbsp;"Glera" grapes.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne is made with the traditional method; Prosecco is made with the tank method.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne's aroma profile has almonds and toasty notes; Prosecco's aroma profile has fresh fruits and flowers.</li></ul><p contenteditable="false" fr-original-class="custom-button-wrapper fr-deletable" fr-original-style="text-align:center" style="text-align: center; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; box-sizing: border-box;"><a bgcolor="#000000FF" color="#FFFFFFFF" contenteditable="false" fr-original-class="custom-button-link" fr-original-style="background-color:#000000FF !important;color:#fafbfc !important" href="https://apos.to/i/sparkling-questions" rel="noreferrer" style="background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) !important; color: rgb(250, 251, 252) !important; text-decoration: none; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Read more</a><p contenteditable="false" fr-original-class="custom-button-wrapper fr-deletable" fr-original-style="text-align:center" style="text-align: center; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; box-sizing: border-box;"><a bgcolor="#000000FF" color="#FFFFFFFF" contenteditable="false" fr-original-class="custom-button-link" fr-original-style="background-color:#000000FF !important;color:#fafbfc !important" href="https://apos.to/n/veraison-en" rel="noreferrer" style="background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) !important; color: rgb(250, 251, 252) !important; text-decoration: none; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Subscribe</a>

Aposto Playground

<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne is French, Prosecco is Italian.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne is from Champagne region; Prosecco is from Veneto region.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne is made from "Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier" grapes; Prosecco is made from&nbsp;"Glera" grapes.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne is made with the traditional method; Prosecco is made with the tank method.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Champagne's aroma profile has almonds and toasty notes; Prosecco's aroma profile has fresh fruits and flowers.</li></ul><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/5/5/1654872331693.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.81" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"> <h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Production</h2><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Tank Method</h3>Tank method is often less appreciated compared to the traditional method (a.k.a. méthode champenoise, méthode traditionnelle), but we respect it- a lot. I described the traditional method last week in my article "A bubbly week", link <a fr-original-style="" href="https://apos.to/i/bol-kopuklu-hafta" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here</a>. If you take a look, you can understand this method in detail. The tank method takes less time, less labor and cost compared to the traditional method. Hence more capacity, more bottles, more sales. And why is that?<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">No aging on the lees after the second fermentation. (Champagne is aged on the lees for 15 months to develop texture in the wine.)</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">No "riddling".&nbsp;</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">No screw caps, no disgorging.</li></ul><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/5/5/1654872499875.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.71" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">If you're thinking "Riddling and a screw cap!? What are those?", let's take you <a fr-original-style="" href="https://apos.to/s/61dcaabb00069000070d8f8b?" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here</a>. All of these steps take time, labor and cost. Without these, you can produce and sell faster. Now, let's look at the tank method step by step.<h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 1: Base Wine</h3>Base wine is made.<h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 2: Second Fermentation</h3>Sugar and yeast are added to the base wine in the tank. In the traditional method, the base wine is bottled and the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. Compared to traditional method; in tank method there are no bottles; there are tanks. So you do not have the second fermentation in each and every bottle; but totally in a tank. And this tank is a high pressure tank. Since this is a sparkling wine, we need bubbles. Bubbles in a sparkling wine mean carbon dioxide. We don't let go of the carbon dioxide from the fermentation, we keep it in the tank. Without pressure it will fly away. So this is the reason why are looking for a high pressure tank.<h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 3: Lees-less Farewell</h3>Now, the second fermentation is over. Yeast practically ate the sugar. And yeast dies in a process called autolysis. And those dead yeast cells which are autolytic yeast particles are called lees.&nbsp;Depending on the style of sparkling wine you want to make, the wine can be aged on their lees, or you can get rid of them. In tank method, this is not commonly applied. This period gives specific aromas to the wine; like butter, brioche, toasted bread, cookies. This profile is not desired in tank method, so aging on the lees is (mostly) avoided. Here, more fruit forward aroma profile is preferred. Therefore, there is usually no contact with lees. Yeast cells are is removed by filtration.<h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 4: Bottling</h3>Wine is filled into the bottles with the help of pressure and carbon dioxide; and ready!<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/5/5/1654872719349.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.81" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"> <h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Aromatic Differences</h2><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Fruits or cookies?</h3>There are 2 main reasons why prosecco and champagne have different aroma profile:<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Production process</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Grapes</li></ul>There are aromatic differences between Prosecco and Champagne precisely because of the autolytic yeast particles/lees in the production process- as shared above. Champagne and sparkling wines produced with the traditional method have aromas like toasted bread and cookies due to the yeast autolysis. And this aromatic profile is actually the most distinctive sensorial experience in aroma profile. Let's say you are blind tasting; that is, you taste without knowing what you are tasting. If you get notes of toast, cookies, brioche on the nose, you might immediately link this profile to the yeast autolysis/lees aging and think that this might be a sparkling wine produced in the traditional way. In Prosecco, on the other hand, the primary aromas of the base wine - fruits and flowers - are at the forefront.As for the grapes used, Champagne is made from "Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier", while Prosecco is made from "Glera". The difference in the aromatics of the grapes also differentiates Prosecco and Champagne in terms of sensory experience.

All in one breath:

Prosecco vs. Champagne

As we enter the new year, many bubbles have opened, right and wrong, popping and not popping, flying and non-flying corks. Yes, our first topic is bubbles.&nbsp;"Not all sparkling wines are champagne," I say, and&nbsp;"Let's not call every sparkling wine champagne." In this article, I clarify this issue. There are two reasons why we call it champagne. The first is that it comes from the Champagne region of France, and the second is that it is produced traditionally. That fancy label you see on the shelf, or the sparkling wine you pop on New Year's Eve may not be champagne, beware. You don't want to throw champagne around anyway (I hope). There are five methods of sparkling wine production. The traditional method, transfer method, tank method, Asti method, and carbonation. This issue we'll dig into the traditional method here.<h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Traditional Method</h2>If we see&nbsp;"méthode traditionnelle=traditional method" on the label, we stop and respect it. Respect for labor and time. Because it is a very tedious process. I am sharing the traditional method production process step by step, simply, and step by step.<h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 1: Base Wine</h3>First, the base wine is made. Depending on the style of sparkling wine you want to produce, you could either barrel it or not, put it through malolactic fermentation or not; you make the dry wine. The alcohol content of the wine has to be around 9-11% abv. Because there will be another 1-2% abv in the second fermentation, be careful.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657096004458.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"> <h3 fr-original-style="text-align: left;" style="text-align: left; margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 2: To Mix or Not to Mix</h3>You've made the base wine. Are you going to blend it with other wines or not now?<ul fr-original-style="padding-inline-start: 20px;" style="padding-inline-start: 20px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Your champagne, your style. You can mix different grapes with different yields. Or you may not blend at all.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Aromatic and structural balance. For example, you can enrich the citrus aromas from Chardonnay with red fruits by adding Pinot Noir; you can also strengthen the body. Think of it like blends in dry wines.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Variety, complexity, richness, you name it. For example, you can achieve these notes by adding a barreled wine to a wine that has never seen a barrel. Or you can add an older wine to capture the flavor characters that come with aging.</li></ul><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657096125424.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 3: Second Fermentation</h3>You take the base wine into the bottle and add a mixture called liqueur de tirage, which contains wine, sugar, and yeast. You know the soda caps, it's sealed with that. Inside this cap, there is a little plastic cap. Then it is positioned horizontally. Let the second fermentation begin! There is sugar and yeast. The yeast can't stop eating the sugar. Now, you get about 1-2% abv alcohol and a lot of carbon dioxide. This carbon dioxide is the bubbles in sparkling wines. The situation is a bit tense now. Because there are about 5-6 pressure atmospheres in the bottle right now. Be careful!<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657096219922.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 4: Yeast Autolysis</h3>The second fermentation is over, and the yeast ate the sugar and died. What's left is yeast sediment in the bottle. This yeast breakdown over time and some chemical compounds emerge by this breakdown. It is called yeast autolysis. The chemical compounds produced by the dead yeast's breakdown sediment give the wine aromas like&nbsp;toasted bread and cookies. If you've ever had champagne and you got notes of toasted bread, cookies, brioche, that's exactly why!<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657096393712.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"> <h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 5: Riddling</h3>The dead yeast in the bottle disintegrated, and the sediment is still there. It needs to come out. "Riddling" is done, so the bottle is moved from a horizontal position to a right-angled position. It is done very slowly. The idea is that the dead yeast sediment moves towards the very end of the bottle and accumulates there. There was a plastic mini-cap on the end of the bottle, and it was closed with a soda cap in step 3 - let's remember. There is a reason why this sediment accumulates at the end of the bottle. This&nbsp;"riddling" used to be done by hand. The bottles were placed horizontally on an angled and perforated surface, like an inverted letter V. Every day they had moved by hand to a vertical angle with a slight jolt-turn. As you can imagine, that's a lot of labor and time. This process took about 8 weeks. Some manufacturers do this, but of course, with an easier way. In cages called "gyropalettes," the bottles are moved collectively at an angle, and the 8-week process has reduced to days with this mechanization.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657096663492.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 6: Booom!</h3>"Riddling" is complete, and the sediment is at the end of the bottle. In the next step, the bottles have placed upside down in a cold solution, the aim do this is to freeze the sediment at the tip. Then they are held flat, the soda cap has removed, and booom! The plastic mini-cap and the sediment come out under pressure.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657098329631.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"> <h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Step 7: Closing</h3>A mixture of wine and sugar called liqueur d'expedition is added to the bottle and corked.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657098387062.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"> Sparkling wine made the traditional way is ready! You've probably guessed the next step.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657098407437.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"> Note: The illustrations are by <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/estersaba.design/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Ester Saba</a> . A big cheers to you Ester!Not all sparkling wines produced traditionally are champagne. As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, champagne must also come from the Champagne region. By looking at the bottle's label, we can tell if it's produced by the traditional method. If we see "méthode traditionnelle=traditional method" on the label, we could say that champagne has produced with the traditional method. If it's not indicated on the label, we could say that the other methods were used.

       

Bubbles, bubbly, bubble.

In this issue, instead of sharing a Grapest Hits&nbsp;list, I'm going to share one melody, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://open.spotify.com/track/3BYvXCcTRKkTpT3ARjDG5v?si=8bded7a19dd34953" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Clicquot&nbsp;</a>from <a fr-original-style="" href="https://open.spotify.com/artist/6pmxr66tMAePxzOLfjGNcX?si=j-cwK-CgRHWrjw2u_-9d_g" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Beirut's</a> The Flying Club Cup album. This melody is inspired by the story of "La Grande Dame De La Champagne", Madame Clicquot, the grande dame of champagne. The story of a woman whose name will never be forgotten. Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, aka Veuve Clicquot (Widow Clicquot). The melody is&nbsp;<a fr-original-style="" href="https://open.spotify.com/track/3BYvXCcTRKkTpT3ARjDG5v?si=9e36af7eeab34557" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here</a>. It's a sad melody, and the story is in the following lines. If you have it on, and the music of Beirut is playing in the background, which is both sad and strangely peaceful, let's start the story.<blockquote fr-original-style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); border-color: rgb(41, 174, 125); border-width: 4px; font-style: italic; padding-left: 10px;" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); border-color: rgb(41, 174, 125); border-width: 4px; font-style: italic; padding-left: 10px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; border-left-style: solid; box-sizing: border-box;">"But what melody will lead my lover from his bed?What melody will see him in my arms again?I'll sing of the walls of the well and the house at the top of the hillI'll sing of the bottles of wine that we left on our old windowsillI'll sing of the years you will spend getting sadder and olderOh love, and the cold, the oncoming cold"</blockquote>Why Veuve (Widow) Clicquot?Veuve Clicquot is one of the big champagne producers. You know the yellow label, or I'm sure you'll recognize it when you see it (below). Veuve means "widow" in French. So where does the name come from?<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657112836683.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.35" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Photo: <a fr-original-style="" href="https://veuveclicquot.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">veuveclicquot.com</a>&nbsp;The story of Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin begins in Reims in 1777. She is the daughter of a father who textile giant. At the age of 20, she married&nbsp;François Clicquot, a textile giant but also a wine producer. And she finds herself in wine production. Her marriage is short-lived. Her husband François Clicquot died of typhoid fever, popularly known as "black fever." It is where the word Veuve, means widow, comes.<h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">A clear idea and a clear champagne</h3>Champagne was becoming very popular during this period. Bubbly, sweet, and enjoyable bottles were produced. But there was a haze in the bottles. The yeast sediment from the second fermentation creates cloudiness in the wine. Madame Clicquot asked the question that will change the fate of champagne:&nbsp;"How?" And with a clear idea, she produced a clear champagne. The idea is a set of holes to hold the bottles upright at an angle, inverted at the neck. At this angle, the yeast sediment in the bottle collapses down. They were -and still are- called these&nbsp;riddling racks. (I've shared a photo below). Then the bottle is opened under appropriate conditions, and this yeast sediment is removed from the bottle with pressure. Now we have a clear champagne! This "riddling rack" is still used today in the production of champagne. It's a significant part of the process (with all due respect to Madame Clicquot).<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657113104532.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.03" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"> &nbsp;Madame Clicquot was one of the first international businesswomen. At that time, it was not very common for a woman to take over the company's management. In fact, this initiative was highly criticized and many comments were made that she would not be successful. But "La Grande Dame De La Champagne" didn't hear much of this, which is why we are talking and telling her story today.The Veuve Clicquot producer has a "prestige cuvée" called "La Grande Dame". Prestige Cuvée is the producer's best champagne, produced from the best vineyards and grapes in the region. It makes sense that Veuve Clicquot calls these wines "La Grande Dame," paying an enormous reverence to Madame Clicquot in every bottle. Madame Clicquot has always believed in the power of the Pinot Noir grape. Let's not pass without quoting it:&nbsp;"Our black grapes give the finest white wines." is one of her words. He crowned his love for Pinot Noir with La Grande Dame products. Since 2008, all of the blends in this series have 90% or more Pinot Noir (the other grape is Chardonnay).In 2021, I had the opportunity to taste the La Grande Dame series. With the<a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/bosphoruswinesociety/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">&nbsp;Bosphorus Wine Society</a>, we said goodbye to 2021 with sparkling wines and prepared a good selection. This selection included Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2004 and 2006. Photos below, tasting notes <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CYCJo2jAPds/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here.</a><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657120391305.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657120401021.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">In 2012, they collaborated with Yayoi Kusama. She brought her fun, colorful and iconic designs to the bottle and box. Yayoi Kusama's polka dots are on La Grande Dame; like bubbles in champagne! I don't know if it's my love for Yayoi Kusama or not; I love the bottle and the box.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657120467100.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.79" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/6/3/1657120476651.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.44" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Photos: <a fr-original-style="" href="https://veuveclicquot.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">https://veuveclicquot.com/</a>🎵 I'm ending this article with Beirut's tunes that make you cry and laugh and make you sway a little, listen to the melody again after this article, <a fr-original-style="" href="https://open.spotify.com/track/3BYvXCcTRKkTpT3ARjDG5v?si=326d6cb015954488" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">here.</a>"But what melody will lead my lover from his bed?What melody will see him in my arms again?"

     

A Sad Melody, A Sparkling Story

Yılın ilk sayısı kutlama ve on yüz bin milyon baloncuk içeriyor. Yeni yıla girerken yanlışı ve doğrusu ile; köpürüp taşanı ve taşmayanı ile; uçan ve uçmayan mantarı ile pek çok köpüklü açıldı. Evet, ilk konumuz köpüklüler. “Her köpüklü şarap şampanya değildir.”&nbsp;diyorum ve “Her köpüklü şaraba de şampanya demeyelim.” diyerek bu yazıda bu konuya bir açıklık getiriyorum. Şampanyaya şampanya dememizin 2 sebebi var. Birincisi Fransa'nın Champagne bölgesinden gelmesi, ikincisi de geleneksel yöntem ile üretilmesi. O rafta gördüğün havalı etiket, veya yılbaşında patlatıp etrafa saçtığın köpüklü şarap şampanya olmayabilir, dikkat. Zaten şampanyayı etrafa saçmak istemezsin (umarım). Köpüklü şarap üretiminin 5 metodu var. Geleneksel metod, transfer metodu, tank metodu, Asti metodu ve karbonasyon. Bu hafta burada geleneksel metodu didikleyeceğiz.<h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Geleneksek Metod</h2>Etikette “méthode traditionnelle=traditional method=geleneksel yöntem” gördüysek önce bir durup saygı duyuyoruz. Emeğe ve zamana saygı; zira pek meşakkatli bir süreç. Geleneksel yöntem üretim sürecini adım adım, sade sade paylaşıyorum.<h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Adım 1: Baz Şarap</h3>Önce, baz bir şarap yapılıyor. Üretilmek istenen köpüklü şarabın stiline göre ister fıçıya al ister alma, ister malolaktik fermantasyona sok ister sokma; sek şarabı yapıyorsun. Şarabın alkol oranının 9-11% abv etrafında olması gerekiyor. Çünkü ikinci fermantasyonda 1-2% abv daha gelecek, aman dikkat.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/0/2/1641896957348.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Adım 2: Karıştırmak ya da Karıştırmamak</h3>Baz şarabı yaptın, peki şimdi başka şaraplar ile blend yapacak mısın yapmayacak mısın?<ul fr-original-style="" style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; list-style-position: inside; box-sizing: border-box;"><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Senin şampanyan, senin stilin. Farklı üzümleri, rekolteleri karıştırabilirsin. Veya hiç karıştırmayabilirsin.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Aromatik ve yapısal denge. Örneğin Chardonnay’den gelen narenciye aromalarını Pinot Noir&nbsp;ekleyerek kırmızı meyveler ile zenginleştirebilir; gövdeyi de güçlendirebilirsin. Aynı sek şaraplardaki blendler gibi düşün.</li><li fr-original-style="" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Çeşitlilik, kompleksite, zenginlik; artık ne dersen o. Örneğin hiç fıçı görmemiş şarabına fıçılı bir şarap ekleyerek bu notları elde edebilirsin. Veya daha yaşlı bir şarap ekleyerek yıllanma ile gelen aroma karakterlerini yakalayabilirsin</li></ul><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/0/2/1641897175290.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Adım 3: İkinci Fermantasyon</h3>Baz şarabını şişeye aldın; liqueur de tirage&nbsp;denilen içinde şarap, şeker, maya bulunan bir karışım ekleniyor. Gazoz kapakları var ya hani, onu hayal et, onunla kapatılıyor. Bu kapağın içinde plastik bir minik kapak oluyor. Sonra yatay bir şekilde konumlandırılıyor. Başlasın ikinci fermantasyon! Şeker var, maya var; maya şekeri yemeden duramıyor. Yaklaşık 1-2% abv alkol ve bolca karbondioksit oluşuyor. Bu karbondioksit de işte köpüklü şaraplardaki o baloncuklar. Durum biraz gergin, yaklaşık 5-6 atmosfer basınç var şişede şuan, aman dikkat.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/0/2/1641897675083.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h4 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"> </h4><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Adım 4: Maya Otolizi</h3>İkinci fermantasyon bitti, maya şekeri yedi ve öldü. Geriye şişede maya tortusu kalıyor. Bu kalan maya tortusu zamanla parçalanıyor ve bu parçalanma ile bazı kimyasal bileşikler çıkıyor. İşte buna maya otolizi deniliyor. Ölü maya tortusunun parçalanması ile ortaya çıkan kimyasal bileşikler de şaraba&nbsp;kızarmış ekmek, kurabiye gibi aromalar katıyor. Eğer bir şampanya içtiysen, ve kızarmış ekmek, kurabiye, brioche gibi notalar aldıysan işte tam da bu yüzden!<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/0/2/1641897825197.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Adım 5: Riddling</h3>Şişede ölü maya parçalandı, tortu hala orada. Çıkması lazım. “Riddling”&nbsp;yapılıyor, yani şişe yatay konumdan dik açılı bir konuma getiriliyor. Bu işlem oldukça yavaş yapılıyor. Amaç ölü maya tortusunun şişenin en ucuna doğru ilerleyip orada birikmesi. Şişenin ucunda plastic mini-kapak vardı ve gazoz kapağı ile kapatılmıştı 3. adımda- hatırlayalım. Sonraki adımı tahmin ediyorsundur; şişenin ucunda bu tortunun birikmesinin bir sebebi var. Bu “riddling” eskiden elle yapılıyordu. Şişeler ters V harfi gibi açılı ve delikli bir yüzeye yatay olarak konuluyor; her gün elle hafif bir sarsıntı-çevirme ile dikey bir açıya doğru hareket ettiriliyorlardı. Tahmin edersin ki oldukça emek ve zaman demek bu. Yaklaşık 8 hafta sürüyormuş bu işlem, 8 hafta! Riddling ve bu açılı yüzey ile ilgili bir fotoğrafımı bu sayının devamındaki diğer yazımda paylaştım, orada görebilirsin. Bunu hala yapan üreticiler var; ama bunun daha kolay bir yolu da düşünülmüş tabi ki. “Gyropalette” denilen kafeslerde şişeler topluca açılı hareket ettiriliyor ve 8 haftalık süreç bu mekanizasyon ile günlere indirilmiş durumda.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/0/2/1641897970208.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"><h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Adım 6: Booom!</h3>“Riddling” tamamlandı, tortu şişenin ucunda. Sonraki adımda şişeler ters olarak soğuk bir çözelti içerisine alınıyor, amaç uçtaki tortunun donması. Sonra düz bir şekilde tutulup ucundaki gazoz kapağı çıkarılıyor ve&nbsp;boooom! Plastik mini-kapak ve tortu basınçla dışarı çıkıyor.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/0/2/1641898074638.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"> <h3 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Adım 7: Kapanış</h3>Şişeye liqueur d'expedition denilen şarap ve şeker karışımı ekleniyor ve mantar ile kapatılıyor.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/0/2/1641898166351.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Geleneksel yöntem ile yapılan köpüklü şarap hazır! Sonraki adımı tahmin ediyorsundur..<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/0/2/1641898242418.png" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="2.01" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Not: İllüstrasyonlar <a fr-original-style="" href="https://www.instagram.com/estersaba.design/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Ester Saba</a>'nın elinden çıktı, sana kocaman bir şerefe Ester!Geleneksel yöntem ile üretilen her köpüklü şarap şampanya değil; yazının başında da belirttiğim gibi şampanya olabilmesi için aynı zamanda Champagne bölgesinden gelmesi gerekiyor. Şişenin etiketine bakarak geleneksel yöntem ile üretilip üretilmediğini anlayabiliriz. Etiket üzerinde “méthode traditionnelle=traditional method=geleneksel yöntem” gördüysek geleneKsel yöntem ile üretilmiş demektir. Etikette bu belirtilmediyse diğer yöntemlerden biri kullanılmış demektir, onları da haftaya didikleyeceğiz.

Champagne ile ilgili hikayeler