<h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">F</h2>Mahalleli:&nbsp;Beril OymakMahalle:&nbsp;Fevzi Çakmak. <a fr-original-style="" href="https://aposto.com/i/ayvalik-beril-oymak" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Ayvalık'ın merkezi</a><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">G</h2>Mahalleli: Aslı Seven&nbsp;Mahalle:&nbsp;Gümüşlük. <a fr-original-style="" href="https://aposto.com/i/balik-tutan-sasi-kedi-sokagi" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Balık Tutan Şaşı Kedi Sokağı</a><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">L</h2>Gezgin: Elif Bayram&nbsp;Mahalle: Lavapiés. <a fr-original-style="" href="https://aposto.com/i/ruhu-dans-edenlerin-yasadigi-mahalle-lavapies" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">Ruhu dans edenlerin yaşadığı mahalle</a><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">U</h2>Mahalleli:&nbsp;Trail of UsMahalle:&nbsp;Urla.<a fr-original-style="" href="https://aposto.com/i/trail-of-usla-yolda-karavanda-urlada" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">&nbsp;Yolda, karavanda Urla’da</a>

Soli

Köprüden önce son çıkış. 

Bodrumluların bahar rotası

Geçenlerde anneannemin gümüşlüklü, minnoş tatlı evine uğradım. Bu yaş grubunun (70 + ) evine adım attığınız andan itibaren merak olgusu beyni ele geçirir. Televizyon sehpalarındaki tatlı nostaljik biblolar — Tv ünitesi demem evin dokusuna uymaz —, muntazam serilmiş divan (sedir) örtüleri, kapı arkasında kıvrılmış duran boy boy &nbsp;naftalin kokulu serilmeyi bekleyen inanılmaz ağır halılar, giriş kapısında farklı renklerde ya da kahverengi tonlarda asker nizamında dizili terlikler &nbsp;ve evin orta, odak noktasında göğüs kabartan o GÜMÜŞLÜK!Literatürde gümüşlük, Bodrum ilçesine bağlı bir mahalle olarak geçiyor. Peki biz salon kültürümüzde, baş köşede konumlandırılan bu eşyanın içine gümüş aksesuar doldurduğumuz için mi gümüşlük diyoruz? (ekmeklik; ekmek konulan kutu, sütlük, yağdanlık, zeytinlik?) Olaya etimolojik olarak yaklaşınca çözülüyor. Tamam bunu hallettik, peki önemi nedir?&nbsp;O zamanlarda gümüş çok mu kıymetliymiş acaba? Biz camların arkasında konumlandırılmış bardakları, çanak çömlekleri kullanamayacak mıyız? Özel konuklar için mi bu özen? Ya da sadece bir gösteriş mi?&nbsp;Kültürümüzde misafirperverliğin önemi, aile yadigarlarını korumanın önemi açıkta. Hem nesillere hem de misafire verilen bir önem var. Gümüşlükler bunun bir temsili mi yoksa elimizdeki güzel şeyleri saklaya saklaya, kullanmaya kullanmaya zevkini çıkaramadan eskittiğimizin bir hatırlatıcısı mı? &nbsp;

20'lik

Merak Sorusu #4: Gümüşlüklere asla dokunamayacak mıyız? 

Gümüşlük Sendromu

This is a place where you can learn to build your own coast, bay, field, and neighborhood. 

When spring comes to Gümüşlük, nature changes in such a way that even you feel obscure inside you cannot resist its grandiosity.

<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/6/1662802642142.jpeg" width="550" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">With glasses in hands, the sunset in Gümüşlük<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">With the sea salt of Gümüşlük still on our skin, we are on our way to the Istanbul Biennial next week for the sake of art. Balat, Çemberlitaş, Tophane, Zeytinburnu.. People and place we follow, things we discover... Let's keep them as a surprise for now. We're salivating over what we'll see, discover, and witness. If you want to join, to share, to multiply, find us at&nbsp;<a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://link.aposto.com/click?uri%3DaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxOGEyNTJhNGNiOWUwMDA3YTM3ZmMxJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NWU3M2ViYzVlMzAxOWU2MGU5YzE0Y2NkJm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjBhMmE1OTA2Mzg4NzEwMDA2ZWZkMmU2JnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRnd3dy5pbnN0YWdyYW0uY29tJTI1MkZzb2xpLmNvbW11bml0eSUyNTJG&source=gmail&ust=1662967189241000&usg=AOvVaw2zKGGiXsEB6cCZMRI8fmmF" fr-original-style="" href="https://link.aposto.com/click?uri=aHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLmFwb3N0by5jb20vY2xpY2s/aXNzdWU9NjMxOGEyNTJhNGNiOWUwMDA3YTM3ZmMxJnN1YnNjcmliZXI9NWU3M2ViYzVlMzAxOWU2MGU5YzE0Y2NkJm5ld3NsZXR0ZXI9NjBhMmE1OTA2Mzg4NzEwMDA2ZWZkMmU2JnB1Ymxpc2hlcj02MGEyOWQ1ODQ2ODFlMTAwMDY2YTVlMWMmc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnVybD1odHRwcyUyNTNBJTI1MkYlMjUyRnd3dy5pbnN0YWdyYW0uY29tJTI1MkZzb2xpLmNvbW11bml0eSUyNTJG" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: rgb(9, 9, 9); text-decoration: none; background-color: transparent; outline: none; cursor: pointer; transition: color 0.3s ease 0s; touch-action: manipulation; user-select: auto; box-sizing: border-box;" target="_blank">soli.community</a>.

Kendi kıyını, koyunu, adanı, alanını ve mahalleni kurmayı öğrendiğin bir yer burası.

"Gümüşlük'e bahar geldiğinde doğa öyle bir değişir ki sen ne kadar karanlık olursan ol buna karşı koyamazsın."

I have been Gümüşlüklü (from Gümüşlük) since we had to carry a lantern on our way back home along the dirt road. Back then, lanterns were necessary because phones did not have any flashlights. I remember how scared we were at night on the thin path through the bushes. In that narrow space that did not allow two people to pass side by side, four or five of us would queue up in rows. None of us would want to be at the back of the row. We would sing songs or play conversation games out loud to conquer our fear. With each step, we would hear the sound of an animal moving in the bushes. It was a kind of place where nature ruled over the surroundings more than we did. That fear, as an emotion that makes people feel how constructive it actually is to be a more humble being, was healthy.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124709076.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">With Aslı, at Gümüşlük sunset<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85098); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Things lost with urban transformation</h2>In the early 2000s, when urban transformation and intensive tourism first started to take over, I made a list of things that were slowly disappearing and that I missed. Among the things I miss the most are the old river beds. Today, all of them have turned into roads made of asphalt in the village, but once they used to be dirt roads that were so dense and covered with lush vegetation that you could not even see the sky and that cars could hardly enter. I spent the summers of my childhood in the tree hollows, in the world of squirrels and turtles on those roads, it was like the forests in old cartoons, full of surprises. In my list, there were also the sounds of frogs in the wells of the houses, the braying of donkeys and the sounds of the waves licking the shore and retreating through the pebbles.What I see today is that the empty places, small agricultural areas and tangerine orchards in the village beyond the coastline of Gümüşlük have become fewer and fewer, and they have been replaced by gated communities consisting of box-like houses, car garages and a 'wasteland' where every bit of empty space has turned into a junkyard. I think the thing we undervalue most is space.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124639896.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="1.34" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Attention! You can bump into Gümüşlük's actual habitants, any time, any where&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">We call it empty land, but it is not actually empty at all. An organism is in motion under the soil where plants and animals feed each other, reproduce, move together, and, eventually, feed us. We suffer from a nature blindness. It is also necessary to add to this: the water purification and its destruction directed to Gümüşlük bay today and its destruction. For example, the quality of the water has deteriorated drastically and the blue flag has been lost. But no one talks about it, even though this is an issue that brings up the infrastructure problem of the entire Bodrum peninsula. This place turns into a vacuum truck republic in the summer months. We swim and breathe in waste.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124685854.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Foot to the sea, eyes to the beach, faces to the sun <hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85098); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">The savior of the future: small-scale agriculture and livestock</h2>The thing that most affected my approach to world issues was to observe how urbanisation worked here over a period of 30-35 years. I found answers to my questions such as, how urbanisation develops, what phases it goes through, what infrastructure means, what rural production means… I learnt these things by experiencing them one-on-one. This is a place where we experience the results of concrete and construction being the thing that runs the economy and "saves" it from crises in the world and especially in Turkey.&nbsp;I had the chance to be here when COVID-19 first broke out, I thought a lot about how important it is to preserve small-scale agriculture in order to survive in a time when the pandemic scared us all and the uncertainty was very high, because, despite all the destruction of tourism, this is a place where small-scale agriculture and farming still resists.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124698212.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">On the way to Rabbit Island, step by step, through the sea.<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85098); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Rituals, either/both alone or/and&nbsp;together</h2>I have unchanging rituals that I have acquired over my years here in Gümüşlük. Taking a long swim in the sea early in the morning is one of them. For example, there is a goat family living on Rabbit Island this summer. Every morning I swim to the island, circle around the island and watch the goats when there are very few people around. When the sun rises, I run home, which gets cool because it is a stone house. I spend my daytime with various creative projects such as reading, writing and drawing. I divide my afternoons between cycling around the village and gardening, sometimes I cut and grow a piece of the interesting plant that I come across on my bike tours. These are the rituals of my 'me time', and of course there is the social life as well. I make plans where we cook and swim with a circle of people like me who have been here for twenty, thirty or forty years or have beeniving between here and elsewhere. Life enlarges here when friends come to stay with me. There are times when I go out of Gümüşlük and wander in other bays, spend days in places like Ortakent, Bitez, Gündoğan, and live a parallel life that I can describe as 'touristic'.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124735582.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Afternoon conversations under the olive three<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85098); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Who is the Gümüşlük commune anyway?</h2>I think I am looking at Gümüşlük from a position that the word 'commune' does not quite match. I relate more to plants, bugs, smells, stones, water and wind, rather than the people living here. Of course, this was much stronger twenty or thirty years ago. The construction madness that has been going on since the early 2000s has lowered the frequency of nature a lot, but still, this is a place with hidden gardens and corners away from tourism and crowds of people. Maybe because it is a very small place, a village, I prefer to be anonymous and not get too involved in human relations. For an intellectual or artistic production, one has to spend time not only in chaos, but also in their own world. This is a place where I find the calmness that I cannot find in city life, get closer to my centre of gravity and create my own orbit. My favourite thing is that my family, aunt and cousin, who live here for four seasons, are people who create ceramics, design, music and I can talk to them about creative processes. It is also nurturing to relate to organizations such as Gümüşlük Academy and Classical Music Festival, which focus on cultural production, and the atmosphere they try to create here.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/6/1662175977167.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">No, it is captured from a documentary, this is the nature of Gümüşlük<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 dir="ltr" fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85098); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Nature that resists</h2>There is definitely a change of perspective that comes from living by spending time in the water or moving in the water, looking at the land from the water, and being able to do this not just for a week or two, but sometimes for months. It would seem right to call it&nbsp;an expansion of perspective. Being here is&nbsp;a state of liberation&nbsp;brought about by bodily position or bodily movement, or, for example, the decrease in gravity that comes with water, as I am mostly busy with mental work. Living close to nature, regardless of water, also has a separate contribution. Watching how some things take shape in the natural world is a great way to understand or remember again and again that&nbsp;the process is always more important than the result.One day at the beginning of this summer, my cousin and I were sitting on the terrace of the house and watching the valley as the sun went down, without talking much. Within half an hour, we observed the swallow chicks, which had just settled on the electric wires and were just learning to fly, and then the family of wild boars passing through the reeds beyond the field in front of the house. Just when they were taken off the stage, a fox appeared in the middle of the field, jumping towards us. I can still hear the sounds of wild animals that I do not know, with the wind rising towards the morning when I can't sleep. I used to clean the weeds that grew in the garden of the house, now I let the bugs and reptiles reproduce, because they no longer have any other place. The creatures we label as harmful are also living, and there is so much we still do not know about them.

Hood: Gümüşlük, Inhabitant & Article: Aslı Seven Photography: Aslı Seven & Rana Mengü

Gümüşlük commune: plants, bugs, and water


The Gümüşlük International Classical Music Festival, where you have been able to watch Juan Lago &amp; Balen Navarro and many concerts such as violin, cello and piano with bare feet at sunset and on the sand since July, will end on September 14 with the concert of Gülsin Onay and Bilkent Youth Symphony Orchestra. We met with Funda (Açıkbaş), the coordinator of the festival, to talk about the relationship between Gümüşlük and music on the sand. Funda suggested that we not miss Turgut Alp Bekiroğlu's project Love Jazz Quartet on September 6.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124896087.jpeg" width="550" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Funda AçıkbaşPhotography:&nbsp;Zekican Sarısoy<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Why is Gümüşlük the centre of an international music festival? Is Gümüşlük a place that opens up a space for art?In the 1980s, Gümüşlük was a meeting place for painters, musicians, theatre actors, writers and poets who are known and respected in Turkey and even the world. That is why it is known as the 'artist village'. The artistic director of the festival, Eren Levendoğlu, who is also a pianist, decided to settle here. When he came to Gümüşlük, the historical Eklisia Chapel was in use as an international art centre. International projects involving different art disciplines such as music, dance, theatre, photography, sculpture and installation were held here between 1989 and 2007. In 2003, Eren initiated the Piano Festival under the artistic direction and supervision of Gülsin Onay, who is a state artist.The starting point of the festival is to contribute to their music careers by offering an alternative education to talented music students. The virtuosos invited for the master classes also started to give recitals in Eklisia Chapel, and this is how the Gümüşlük Music Festival, which turned into a nineteen-year international music festival, began. Today it covers jazz and all other music genres. For the last 3 years, such activities have been organised under the name of Yeşil Yaşam Gümüşlük and with the theme of sustainable life, which aims to raise environmental awareness.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124924061.jpeg" width="550" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">On the beach of Gümüşlük, at the concert<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">There is also an 'artist residence' that is a part of the festival. What do you think this residence in Gümüşlük will bring to the artists and the neighbourhood?Artist residences are held in Gümüşlük simultaneously with the festival, which later becomes a part of the festival. So far, names such as Can Yücel, Tuncel Kurtiz, Nihat İleri, Civan Canova, Lale Müldür, Yaz, Poyraz, Efe, Fora Baltacıgil, Reyent Bölükbaşı, Ömer Uluç, Carlo Domeniconi, Yavuz Tanyeli, Bettina Franckenberg have come to the residence. At that time, there was no specific residence theme as today, and today the residence does not take place around a certain theme. It's kind of organic. One way or another, the artists we invite cannot leave here, or they come and stay here and start producing with the natural atmosphere of the Festival Center. In addition to the everyday life of Gümüşlük, the people, artists and students they meet here inspire them and offer them the opportunity to produce in a creative environment away from their daily routines. It becomes a source for unplanned projects that are not in their minds. Different ideas catch the attention of the neighbourhood and arouse the curiosity of the neighbourhood.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/6/1662205722167.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">A teammate exhausted from festival preparations. <hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">How do the locals view the festival? Is there such a thing as owning the festival or helping the festival team?According to Eren, the shopkeepers were warmer to the festival when Eklisia was performing their first concert nineteen years ago. 'There was a time when we got support from all the restaurants,' says Eren. At that time there was the Municipality of Gümüşlük —&nbsp;Gümüşlük had not yet been a district of Bodrum. So, it was easier to get support from the tradesmen. After the municipalities merged, it became harder.However, due to the change in Gümüşlük in recent years and the commercial approach of the new owners who took over the well-established places, this sense of togetherness has decreased slightly. If we could understand how a network created in the first years of the festival, where cultural tourism can be established together, would contribute positively to Gümüşlük, very good partnerships could be established with new owners. The old tradesmen of Gümüşlük (such as Onion Garlic, Hotel Gümüşlük, Myndos Hotel, Sysyphos Pansiyon) do their best in important items such as accommodation and meals for artists, which strain the festival budget. In fact, it is mostly personal support that has enabled the festival to survive from the very beginning. The people we call Festival Dostları (Festival Friends) are actually everyone who knows the old and quiet times of Gümüşlük.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124953553.jpeg" width="550" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; vertical-align: middle; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="1.50" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">A night time concert&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">To which stops in the neighbourhood are you a frequenter?Except for Tuz Duman Kumda, I think I mostly go to the municipality's kahve (café). There was also Faik'in Gahvesi in the past, whose owner changed this year, and when the owner changed, the kahve (café) changed its shape. Before everything got too expensive, that is, which was when we first moved here, we used to go to Hasan'ın Yeri, known as Gümüşlük Fish Cooking House&nbsp;now. And of course to Mars Café, where I can say that I am a frequenter. Mars Café was a real neighbourhood bar. The most enjoyable times there were the winter months. Unfortunately, we lost that too and now there is another bar in its place. I also think I am a regular at Yeni Hayat these days.

Do not miss Turgut Alp Bekiroğlu's project Love Jazz Quartet on September 6

STOP BY: Gümüşlük International Classical Music Festival


<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662124981731.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">If our subject is Gümüşlük, we can also jump from the rocks.Photography: Aslı Seven<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom: none; clear: both; user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">We started our wandering in today’s Gümüşlük by following the overturned dustbins where the sounds of frogs come from the streams, the braying of the donkeys is louder than the horns, the cars give way to the cows crossing the street, and the pigs are on their way. Next week, we will follow the relatively new Gümüşlük-lü Yiğit Karaahmet, Lara Lakay, and Jehan Barbur, we will visit the places they frequent, and we will ask them: Do people create in chaos or feed on nature?. And finally, which stops do you frequent in the neighbourhood?A salty, sandy week for you!

Mahalle: Gümüşlük. Mahalleli ve Yazı: Aslı Seven.&nbsp;Fotoğraflar:&nbsp;Aslı Seven &amp; Rana Mengü.&nbsp;Toprak yoldan eve dönerken fenerin mecburi olduğu zamandan beri Gümüşlük’lüyüm. Fener mecburiydi çünkü cep telefonlarının da feneri yoktu. Çalıların arasından ilerleyen ince patikada geceleri ne kadar korktuğumuzu hatırlıyorum. İki kişinin yan yana geçmesine olanak vermeyen dar alanda, dört beş kişi sıra haline dizilirdik. Kimse en arkada olmak istemezdi. Korkumuzu dindirmek için şarkılar söyler veya sesli oyunlar geliştirirdik. Her adımda çalıların arasında hareket eden bir hayvanın sesini duyardık. Doğanın ortama bizden daha fazla hakim olduğu bir yerdi. Bu korku insana daha alçakgönüllü bir varlık olmanın ne kadar yapıcı olabileceğini hissettiren bir duygu olarak sağlıklıydı.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662106772205.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Aslı Gümüşlük'te günü batırırken<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Kentsel dönüşümle kaybolan şeyler</h2>Kentsel dönüşümün ve yoğun turizmin kendini ilk hissettirmeye başladığı 2000’lerin başında yavaş yavaş kaybolan ve özlediğim şeylerin listesini yapmıştım. En çok özlediğim şeylerin arasında eski dere yatakları var. Bugün hepsi köy içindeki asfalt yollara dönüştü ama bir zamanlar gökyüzünü bile göremeyecek kadar yoğun ve yemyeşil bitki örtüsünün kapladığı, arabaların zor girdiği toprak yollardı bunlar. Çocukluğumun yazları o yollardaki ağaç kovuklarında, sincaplar ve kaplumbağaların dünyasında geçti, eski çizgi filmlerdeki ormanlar gibiydi, süprizlerle dolu. Evlerin kuyularından yükselen kurbağa sesleri, eşeklerin anırmaları ve dalgaların sahili yalayıp geri çekilirken çakıl taşlarının arasından çıkardığı sesler de vardı bu listede.Bugün farkettiğim; Gümüşlük sahil şeridinden beride, köy içindeki boş alanların, küçük tarım alanlarının, mandalina bahçelerinin iyice azalmış olduğu, yerlerine birbiriyle iç içe, kutu kutu evlerden oluşan siteler, araba garajları ve her boş alanın hurdalığa dönüştüğü bir ‘atıklaşma’ nın kondurulduğu. Sanırım değerini en az bildiğimiz şey; alan.&nbsp;<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662106745792.jpeg" width="550" style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Dikkat! Gümüşlük'ün gerçek mahalelileri her yerde karşınıza çıkabilir<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;">Bir de doğa körlüğü var. “Boş” arazi diyoruz ama aslında boş değil, orada toprak altında bitki ve hayvanların birbirini beslediği, çoğaldığı, birlikte hareket ettiği, bizi de besleyen bir organizma hareket hâlinde, devinimde. Bir doğa körlüğünden muzdaribiz. Buna bugün Gümüşlük koyuna yönlendirilmiş olan arıtma ve onun tahribatını da eklemek gerekiyor. Suyun kalitesi çok düştü ve mavi bayrak kaybedildi, mesela bundan hiç kimse bahsetmiyor. Gerçi bu bütün Bodrum yarımadasının altyapı sorununu gündeme getiren bir mesele, burası yaz aylarında bir vidanjör cumhuriyetine dönüşüyor. Atık içinde yüzüyor ve nefes alıyoruz.<h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;"><img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662107156990.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable"></h2>Ayaklar denize, gözler karşı sahile, yüzler güneşe&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Geleceğin kurtarıcısı: küçük ölçekli tarım ve hayvancılık</h2>Dünya meselelerine bakışımı en etkileyen şey 30-35 yıllık zaman içinde kentleşmenin nasıl işlediğini burada gözlemlemek oldu. Şehir ve şehirleşme dediğimiz şey nereden çıkıyor, nasıl oluşuyor ve hangi evrelerden geçiyor, alt yapı nedir, kırsal üretim nedir gibi soruları birebir deneyimleyerek anladım bir anlamda. Bugün dünyada ve özellikle Türkiye’de ekonomiyi döndüren ve krizlerden “kurtaran” şeyin beton ve inşaat oluşunun sonuçlarını yaşadığımız bir yer burası.&nbsp;Covid ilk ortaya çıktığında burada olmak gibi bir şansım oldu, pandeminin hepimizi korkuttuğu ve belirsizliğin çok yüksek olduğu bir dönemde hayatta kalabilmek için küçük ölçek tarımı korumanın ne kadar önemli olduğunu çok düşündüm, çünkü burası turizmin tüm tahribatına rağmen küçük ölçek tarım ve hayvancılığın hâlâ direndiği bir yer. Bu bana, sağlam ve güvenilir zannettiğimiz sistemler çöktüğünde sığınabileceğimiz yerel bilgileri, topluluk ilişkilerini ve her türlü üretimin küçük ölçekte mümkün olabildiği bir düzeni beslemenin ne kadar mühim olduğunu düşündürdü. Belki her yerel alan gibi, mikro ölçekte, sürekli hareket ve dönüşüm halindeki bir dünya kapsülü.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662107222466.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Tavşan Ada'sı yolunda, denizin içinden adım adım&nbsp;<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Yalnız ve birlikte ritüeller</h2>Yıllar içinde, değişmeyen ritüellerim var burada. Sabah erken denize girip uzun yüzmek onlardan biri. Bu yaz tavşan adasında yaşayan bir keçi ailesi var mesela, her sabah adaya kadar yüzüp, adanın etrafında dönüp keçileri izliyorum ortalıkta çok az insan varken. Güneş yükselince eve kaçıyorum, taş ev olduğu için serin oluyor. Gündüz saatleri kitap okuma, yazma, çizme gibi çeşitli yaratıcı projelerle geçiyor. Akşamüstlerim köy içinde bisikletle dolaşmak ve bahçe işleri arasında bölünüyor, bazen bisiklet turlarında karşıma çıkan ilginç bitkilerden bir kesme alıp çoğaltıyorum. Bunlar yalnız olduğum zamanların ritüelleri, bir de sosyal hayat var tabii ki. Benim gibi yirmi, otuz veya kırk yıldır buralı olan veya buraya gidip gelerek yaşayan insanlardan oluşan bir çevre içinde yemekler ve deniz programları yaptığımız oluyor. Evde benimle kalmaya gelen arkadaşlarım olduğunda hayat genişliyor, Gümüşlük dışına çıkıp başka koylarda gezindiğim, Ortakent, Bitez, Gündoğan gibi yerlerde günler geçirdiğim “turistik” diyebileceğim paralel bir hayat da yaşadığım oluyor.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/5/1662107285943.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Zeytin ağacının altında yapılan akşamüstü sohbetleri<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Gümüşlük komünü kimdir?</h2>Gümüşlük’e “komün” kelimesinin tam olarak karşılamadığı bir konumdan bakıyorum sanırım. Burada yaşayan insanlarla değil de daha çok bitki, böcek, koku, taş, su ve rüzgârla ilişki kuruyorum. Bu bahsettiklerim bundan yirmi veya otuz yıl önce çok daha güçlüydü tabii ki, 2000’lerin başından beri süren inşaat deliliği doğanın frekansını çok düşürdü ama hâlâ turizmden ve insan kalabalıklarından uzak gizli bahçeler ve köşelere sahip bir yer burası. Belki biraz da oldukça küçük bir yer, bir köy olduğu için anonim olmayı ve insan ilişkilerine çok fazla girmemeyi tercih ediyorumdur. Zihinsel veya sanatsal bir üretim için insanın sadece kaosun içinde değil, kendi dünyasında da vakit geçirmesi gerekiyor. Şehir hayatında bulamadığım sakinliği bulduğum, merkezime yaklaştığım, kendi yörüngemi kurabildiğim bir yer burası. Burada yaz kış yaşayan ailemin, teyzem ve kuzenimin seramik, tasarım, müzik pratikleri olan kişiler olması ve onlarla yaratıcı süreçler üzerine konuşabilmek en sevdiğim şey. Kültürel üretimi odağına alan Gümüşlük Akademisi ve Klasik Müzik Festivali gibi oluşumlar ve onların burada var etmeye çalıştığı ortamla ilişkilenmek de besleyici oluyor.<img src="https://images.aposto.com/2022/8/4/1662025535505.jpeg" style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px; border-style: none; position: relative; cursor: pointer; padding: 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box;" width="550" ratio="0.75" fr-original-style="display: block; vertical-align: top; margin: 5px auto; text-align: center; width: 100%; max-width: 550px;" fr-original-class="fr-draggable">Hayır burası bir belgeselden alınmadı, burası Gümüşlük'ün tabiatı<hr fr-original-style="" style="height: 0px; overflow: visible; border-bottom-style: none; clear: both; -webkit-user-select: none; break-after: page; box-sizing: border-box;"><h2 fr-original-style="" style="margin: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.85); font-weight: 500; padding: 0px; box-sizing: border-box;">Direnen doğa</h2>Suya girip çıkarak veya su üstünde hareket ederek, karaya sudan bakarak yaşamanın
ve bunu yalnızca 1-2 hafta değil de bazen aylarca yapabilmenin getirdiği bir perspektif
değişikliği var kesinlikle, belki bir perspektif genişlemesi demek doğru olur. Çoğunlukla
zihinsel işlerle meşgul birisi olduğum için bedensel konumun veya bedensel hareketin
getirdiği ya da mesela suyla birlikte gelen yerçekimi azalmasının getirdiği bir
özgürleşme hâli burada olmak. Sudan bağımsız olarak doğaya yakın yaşamanın da ayrı bir katkısı var, bazı şeylerin doğada nasıl şekil aldığını izlemek sürecin sonuçtan her zaman daha önemli olduğunu tekrar tekrar yeniden anlamak veya hatırlamak için müthiş bir yol.Bu yaz başında bir gün kuzenimle evin terasında oturup güneş batarken vadiyi seyrediyorduk, çok da konuşmadan. Yarım saat içinde önce elektrik tellerine konmuş, uçmayı yeni öğrenmeye çalışan kırlangıç yavrularını, ardından evin önündeki tarlanın berisindeki sazlıkların arasından geçen yaban domuzu ailesini gözlemledik. Tam onlar çekildiğinde o tarlanın ortasından bize doğru zıplayarak koşan bir tilki belirdi. Uyuyamadığım geceler sabaha karşı yükselen rüzgârla birlikte ne olduğunu bilmediğim vahşi hayvanların seslerini duyabiliyorum hâlâ. Eskiden evin bahçesine biriken yabani otları temizleyip atardım, artık bırakıyorum, böcekler ve sürüngenler çoğalabilsin diye çünkü başka yerleri yok. Zararlı olarak etiketlediğimiz canlılar da canlı ve onlara dair hâlâ bilmediğimiz o kadar çok şey var ki.

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